The first thing I saw after arriving at the Granada bus station was distant snowy mountains behind a medieval-style tower. What an introduction that was to this amazing city. It was a showery weekend in March, winter was still clinging to the corners, and I was praying the rain would give me a couple of breaks to explore the city. Of course, I arrived prepared with a list of the bests things to see in Granada, and I was so excited to start checking them off.
Granada is very different to Seville, where I was living for a few months at the time, but the essential Andalucían culture of wine, tapas and narrow, beautiful streets remains the same. From the towering Alhambra keeping watch over the city, to the Moorish neighbourhoods of the Albaicín, the history of Granada is all around.
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Best things to see in Granada:
Real Monasterio de San Jeronimo
If you’re coming from the train station, then this lovely monastery is along your way into the city centre. It was the first monastery built by the Catholic Monarchs Isabella and Ferdinand. There are two garden cloisters, a Spanish Baroque sacristy and ornamentation comprised of over 1000 carvings.
Or, if you’re just passing by, the exterior door is worth a quick snap!
Alhambra
The crown jewel of Granada, and the reason most people come to the city in the first place. This is the most-visited attraction in all of Spain, seeing over 2 million visitors each year and over 10,000 a day at its busiest. This isn’t just a castle – it’s an alcazaba (fortress), alcázar (palace) and a medina (city) all in one. Built on a hill overlooking the rest of Granada, it took the place of a Roman fortress, before being expanded by the Moorish Nasrid Kings in the 13th century.
When I visited the Alhambra, I was expecting one large fortress. I never thought I’d find four structures, all completely different, all separate to each other, all completely incredible. And of course, it’s part of Granada’s UNESCO World Heritage Site, so you know I had to go.
– Generalife
This was the summer palace, which is strangely set right next to the rest of the palaces – why, I don’t know. The Generalife is all about the gardens and courtyards. Exquisitely carved arches line fountains and ponds, and the view across the small valley to the main Alhambra compound and Granada is breathtaking.
My favourite memory of the Generalife is wandering through the long, hedge-lined gardens on a cloudy day in March, the flowerbeds still bare from winter, and finding an isolated bunch of newly-bloomed daffodils. I always associate daffodils with my grandmother, who had passed away less than a month before. I’m not the spiritual type, but it was such a lovely reminder of her.
– Palacio de Carlos V
Standing apart from the rest of the Alhambra for several reasons, this Renaissance palace was designed for a Christian emperor instead of a Moorish king. The heavily-carved exterior contrasts vividly with the smooth walls of the nearby Alcazaba.
Step inside the doors and discover a circular inner courtyard. As well as housing the Museum of Fine Arts, the two storeys of columns are perfect for those Instagram shots.
– Alcazaba
The oldest part of the fortress, only the massive exterior walls, turrets and watchtowers remain. The Alcazaba occupies the very edge of the hill on which it was built, so the views from the walls are just incredible. This is the part of the Alhambra that you see best from the town, the sharp lines of the red stone walls sitting within the greenery around it.
Like a lot of the Alhambra, the Alcazaba was abandoned for long periods of time, falling into disrepair. A large restoration project in the 19th and 20th centuries has transformed the place into what you see today.
– Palacios Nazaríes
If the Alhambra is the jewel of Granada, then the Nasrid Palaces are its crowning glory. Three palaces in one, these were the royal residences of the kings of Granada, with meeting rooms, courtyards, narrow hallways and the living quarters of the Harem – the Moorish kings’ wives and mistresses. I couldn’t stop staring as I walked through the maze of corridors. It says a lot that the exterior views from the windows across Granada were less impressive than the palace interiors. Every ceiling was more beautiful than the last, and the décor became more intricate as I went along, culminating in the gorgeous Courtyard of the Lions, which you’ll probably recognise from photos.
The Nasrid Palaces are easily one of the best things to see in Granada, so don’t miss them!
Because of its popularity, and the relatively small size of the rooms and corridors, entrance to the Nasrid Palaces is limited to particular time slots. You can only enter at your designated time slot – miss that and you miss the palaces. Even in spring, it’s busy and can feel crowded, making it very difficult to get photos without the crowds in them. Even if you hang back, you won’t get much time as the next group of visitors will be hot on your tail.
Plaza Nueva
Ironically, the Plaza Nueva (New Square) is the oldest square in Granada. A large open space, what used to be the home of tournaments, games and bullfights is now filled with tapas bars and street vendors. As you wander the city, you’ll likely pass through the plaza several times, each time giving you a chance to spot another hidden detail, like the carved bull from which a fountain’s water flows, or the minaret-style bell tower on the Iglesia de Santa Ana.
Plaza Nueva is the heart of Granada, and most of the main sights are within walking distance. From here you can head right to the Alhambra, left to the Albaicín district or ahead to the beautiful walkway along the River Darro.
Corral del Carbón
This is the oldest Arab monument in Granada. The entrance is an impressive decorative arch, and while the interior courtyard is fairly plain, it’s an interesting look into the non-majestic side of the Moorish times in the city. The Corral used to be a warehouse for storing grain, and later coal, before being used as a theatre. Walking around the inner section, with its stone paving and central fountain, it’s easy to imagine colourful performances and loud crowds. Like many of Granada’s attractions, the Corral del Carbón went through a period of decline, being used as tenement housing at one point, before the city reclaimed and restored it.
You may only need ten minutes to see this sight, but it’s worth the brief pause.
Granada Cathedral
It took 181 years to build Granada’s cathedral. Considering it’s the second largest church in Spain, that’s not altogether surprising. And it’s not even finished.
Unlike in nearby Córdoba, where the city’s grand mosque was simply converted into a Catholic cathedral, Granada built theirs on top of the mosque that was there before. It was designed to have two towers, but one is only half-completed, while the other was never even begun.
There are two things about Granada’s Cathedral that really surprised me. First, it’s almost hidden away, an impressive feat for such a huge building. Surrounded closely by other buildings, you wouldn’t even know it was there until you came up close and saw it’s stunning facade.
Second, unlike most huge cathedrals, whose dim and shadowy interiors create a sombre and pensive mood, Granada’s cathedral is full of light. Its impossibly tall columns are bright white, as is the ceiling, with shining gold ornaments and checkered black and white floor tiles adding a further level of brightness. What you’re left with is an impressive sense of space and air.
Alcaicería
Granada’s version of Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, this narrow street of colourful shops used to take up a lot more of the surrounding area. Over 200 shops filled the impossibly-narrow streets with Arabic silks, spices and other exotic goods spilling out to crowd the ever-decreasing space. Lasting from the 15th to the 19th century, the Alcaicería eventually burned down – ironically, it was the city’s first shop selling cardboard matches that caused the fire.
Nowadays, you’re more likely to find cheap souvenirs and ceramics, as well as mass-produced clothing. But the atmosphere is still reminiscent of what it once was – or, at least, what I imagine it would have been.
With its close proximity to the Cathedral, the Alcaicería is a great thing to do in Granada while you’re wandering the area.
Carmen de los Martires
Although it’s right next door to the Alhambra, this small palace and romantic gardens are often forgotten about. Which means its generally empty and quiet, unlike its busy neighbour. And with free entry, it’s definitely worth stopping in on your way to the Alhambra.
The gardens are large and very pretty, even with all the puddles after a March shower. It has a slightly run-down feeling to it, like it’s constantly being ignored, but I rather liked it. It felt a bit wild, a bit mysterious.
And there are many more opportunities for sneaky timer selfies here than at the Alhambra. In terms of hidden gems, Carmen de los Martires is one of the best things to see in Granada.
Carrera del Darro/Paseo de los Tristes
One of my favourite parts of Granada, it’s places like these that always remind me why I travel. Following the path of the River Darro from Plaza Nueva, Carrera del Darro merges into the Paseo de los Tristes, so named for the funeral processions that wound their way along the route to a nearby cemetery. It means “Passage of the Sad Ones”, but there’s nothing melancholy about the place now.
Weaving along the bottom of the hill on which the Alhambra stands imposing, these streets offer an incredible upwards view of the fortress’ walls. Souvenir shops, tiny restaurants and ancient bridges can all be found here, along with budding flowers and vines coating the walls around you.
Albaicín
Located on the hill facing the Alhambra, the Albaicín neighbourhood is the old Moorish quarter of the city. After the Reconquista – the period during which Christian monarchs reconquered Spanish territory from the Moorish rulers – any Moors who wished to stay in Granada were placed here.
This means the area has kept its ancient charm of narrow, winding alleys and hidden courtyards, even if most of the original structures and mosques have been built over.
One of the most popular places to visit in Granada’s Albaicín area is the Mirador de San Nicolas, a large open area offering stunning views across to the Alhambra and over the red roofs of the city. On Saturdays you can find a craft market here, with local artisans selling jewellery, ceramics and other hand-made goods.
If you have the time…
Sacromonte
If the Albaicín is the Moorish district of Granada, then Sacromonte is the home of the Gypsies. The most unique feature of the neighbourhood is the cave houses, dwellings built into the rock, each one different in shape and size depending on the the geology around it.
Sacromonte is located high above the rest of Granada, and requires quite a bit of walking up steep hills to get there. My limited time in the city didn’t give me a chance to get there, but I’ve been told it’s one of the best things to see in Granada.
Another draw to the neighbourhood is the frequent flamenco shows on offer. Many are now aimed at tourists, especially those in cave houses, and the prices reflect that, but it is possible to find impromptu local gatherings with a more authentic feel.
Ticket Prices (2019)
- Monasterio de San Jeronimo – €4, or €7 for the Saturday guided tour
- Alhambra: €14.85 for general admission or €7.42 for admission without the Nasrid Palaces. I’m not usually one to book tickets in advance, but the Alhambra gets booked out very quickly. A handy calendar on the official ticket website lets you know what days tickets are available. It’s recommended you buy tickets at least a month in advance, longer if you’re going during the busy summer season. It is possible to get last minute tickets as a number of tickets become available at midnight for the following day. But you’ll need to be quick (i.e. buy them at 12.01am) to get them!
- Plaza Nueva – free
- Corral del Carbón – free
- Granada Cathedral – €5
- Alcaicería – free (unless you splurge on pretty things)
- Carmen de los Martires – free
- Paseo de los Tristes – free
- Albaicín – free
- Sacromonte – free, prices vary for flamenco shows, typically start at around €20
Other This Wild Life Of Mine city guides:
The Most Beautiful Places in Seville
All My Favourite Places in Lisbon
Where I Stayed in Granada
Barbieri Hostel: This hostel is just a five minute walk from the cathedral, so its location couldn’t be better. Rooms are tiny, but the staff are genuinely eager to help and there’s a good kitchen and a nice common room to hang out in. Perfect for a quick pass through Granada.
Update 2022: it seems like this hostel (which has a 10/10 rating from over 1000 reviews!) doesn’t do dorm rooms anymore, but it has different private rooms available. If you’re looking for a shared room, then Granada has a huge number of hostels to choose from.
Which part of Granada would you be most excited to see? Tell me in the comments below!
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