I finally made my way home to Africa. I say home because while that may only be the truth temporarily, it’s how this place has felt to me since my first visit six years ago. Six years, really?? Woah. Time does fly. I cut my second year in Australia short because I was given the opportunity to come to Malawi to work with the Lilongwe Wildlife Trust for six months. Due to the very complicated visa management in Malawi, even though I had a six-month visa, I still had to leave to renew it at the three-month mark. And what better way to do a visa run than to go on safari in Zambia?
#1 The animals (duh)
The number one reason anyone goes on an African safari has to be the animals. This continent is chock-full (not as chock-full as it used to be, unfortunately) of unique and amazing species. From the (mostly) gentle giants of the elephants and giraffes to the waddling masses of the hippo to the ferocious power of the big cats – when they’re not napping like a baby – there are so many amazing creatures here you just can’t see in the wild anywhere else. And South Luangwa National Park in Zambia is world-renowned for its variety and number of animals. On our five game drives, we saw 21 mammal species and had over 16 bird species pointed out to us (yes, I kept count).
I don’t think you really need another four reasons to go on a safari, but I’m going to give them to you anyway.
#2 The scenery
The African continent is one of the most diverse places on this planet. Rainforests hiding gorillas in the mist, deserts holding some of the world’s largest sand dunes, tropical islands perfect for loved-up honeymooners. But for me, the quintessential Africa is the bush, the savannah.
The Luangwa Valley is made up of several different habitat types – the dominant woodland savannah, with patches of grassland for the grazers, not to mention the hippo- and croc-filled floodplains hugging the impressive Luangwa River that borders the park. Throw in misty mornings and golden light and it’s just another perfect day in Zambia.
#3 The sunsets and sunrises in Zambia
There’s something in the air in Zambia.
It’s probably just dust, but nevertheless, the effect it produces is, in my humble opinion, spectacular. As the sun sets lower in the sky, it changes colour from golden yellow to a dusky pink. It’s a sunset unlike any I’ve ever seen before, and will always trigger memories of my favourite continent. With the sun a deep red then yellow orb in a hazy sky, there’s no better end to an amazing day of spotting wildlife.
#4 The experience like no other
Yes, you could go to a zoo and see most of the animals. Please don’t.
Animals belong in the wild, and there’s no better way to see them. Hunting, eating, drinking, swimming, free, this is how it’s supposed to be. Hearing a herd of impala break into a chorus of warning calls when they spot a nearby leopard. Watching two bulls elephants square up to each other knee-deep in the Luangwa River. Seeing a plain full of zebra, baboons, antelope and vultures living peacefully side by side. These are experiences you will never see in a zoo.
#5 The surprises
Obviously I had expectations for our safari in Zambia. Well, more like hopes for what we might see on our game drives. But certain things we found blew those hopes out of the water. I never dreamed of seeing an entire elephant family crossing the Luangwa River in a perfectly formed line.
Or a pair of honey badgers scurrying away in the night.
Or a group of lionesses digesting after gorging themselves on a baby giraffe they caught only 100m from your camp.
Or a leopard slowly squeezing the life from a fluffy hyena cub (sad, but incredible. Even our guide lost his shit over that one). There’s so much life out there in the bush, it will blow your mind.
You have no idea what’s in store for you.
I will be honest here. There were some issues that made the experience not-quite perfect. For one, I think the safari guides drive FAR too close to the animals. Yes, the tourists want to see the animals up-close, but seeing as how almost everyone is now kitted out with fancy cameras and a zoom lens (guilty), there’s really no need to intrude into their space that much. It made me sad to see how used to humans the lions, leopards, hyenas, etc. were.
Also, unless you’re in a big group, there’s no way to know who’ll be with you in the car. You’ll probably get at least one ‘keeps-standing-up-when-explicitly-told-not-to’ idiot, or an ‘asks-ridiculous-questions’ nuisance, or possibly even a ‘thinks-they’re-whispering-but-they’re-really-not’ group right when a leopard is stalking some impala. You never know. And it doesn’t help when your guide is busy taking selfies or looking on facebook when he should really be watching those big bull elephants walking past the car.
But that was probably just my luck. These little things in no way put a damper on what was otherwise an incredible four days.
Practical Info for your safari in Zambia:
- I avoid tours if at all possible, but my work at the Lilongwe Wildlife Centre in Malawi meant I had limited time off. The centre has contacts with Malawian Style, a tour company that will bring you from Lilongwe to South Luangwa National Park in Zambia on a 3- or 4-day safari. The price for the 4-day trip was US$495 in October 2016, which included transport, meals and accommodation at Croc Valley Camp, a few minutes drive from the park on the banks of the river. There are many other accommodation options in the area.
- Park fees do apply, at a cost of US$25 per person per day. This is often included in the price of a tour package, but do check. Price accurate as of November 2019.
- The Zambian tourist visa costs US$50 and can be gotten at the border. Price accurate as of November 2019.
- The closest town to the park is Mfuwe, which has an airport servicing regional international flights.
- Just outside the park, there are local craft shops to visit. I highly recommend Mulberry Mongoose, a gorgeous jewellery boutique run by a lovely English lady. Using traditional African materials as well as more modern ones, the big draw for us was their snare wire pieces. Local women take wire from snares found by anti-poaching units in the area, or even removed from injured animals, coil it and turn it into beautiful necklaces, earrings and bracelets. Proceeds from each piece sold go to the anti-poaching patrols. It’s an amazing cause.
- If you’re only going to be in Zambia for the duration of your safari, then I wouldn’t bother getting any local currency. Visas, park fees and all the lodges take US dollars, so just bring enough $ with you.
Interacting with wildlife responsibly:
Never, EVER feed wildlife.
Enticing wildlife with food not only puts yourself in danger, but can lead to wildlife learning to depend on humans to survive or becoming more aggressive – neither of which are a good thing. Human food can also be dangerous to animals, making them ill or malnourished.
Mind your food and dispose of scraps properly.
Feeding wildlife can occur accidentally too, if left unattended or not thrown away correctly. When camping, hiking, or just out in nature, store any snacks or food in proper containers, and don’t leave food lying around unwatched. Even if you think there are no animals around, there probably are. And never leave food next to a rubbish bin. If the bins are full or you can’t find one, take it with you. Don’t be lazy!
Keep your distance.
Wildlife is unpredictable. Unless you’re very familiar with animal behaviour, it can be hard to tell how wildlife is reacting to a situation. Just because an animal looks calm, doesn’t mean it is. Certain times of the year have added dangers, such as mating seasons. Animals can be even more aggressive or volatile during these times, so extra caution is necessary. There have been too many instances of tourists getting too close to wildlife and getting injured, which usually leads to negative consequences for the animal as well.
Don’t touch.
If you’re lucky enough that an animal approaches you of their own free will, please don’t try to pat them. They’re not pets, they don’t enjoy it and it can spook them into doing something aggressive. Your touch can also be dangerous to some animals, particularly marine wildlife who have very sensitive skin. Whales, dolphins and sea turtles can be harmed by the chemicals often found on our skin from lotions, suncream and insect repellent.
Always be aware of your surroundings.
Many wildlife encounters become dangerous simply because the human wasn’t paying attention. When out in nature, always listen out for wildlife, don’t wear headphones, make noise and travel in groups if possible.
Stay calm.
Always important. If you’re surprised by wildlife, remain calm and don’t run. While the original intention of the animal is probably not to hunt, suddenly running or moving away may cause their chase instincts to kick in. Stay facing them and back away slowly.
So have I convinced you that a safari in Zambia is a life experience you simply must have? Or have you been on one before? Tell me all!
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