I cried when I stepped foot on Antarctica for the first time, and if you know me at all, you’ll know what a big deal that is. Although it may just have been the brisk, freezing wind… Antarctica is impossible to describe in words, and photos simply don’t do it justice. It’s a bucket list dream for many people, and only a few lucky souls get to realise that dream. I was one of them, and it was the culmination of almost a decade of travel, my seventh continent, a massive achievement I wanted to reach by the age of 30. I originally planned to take a cruise to the Antarctic Peninsula at the end of 2020, but for a fairly obvious reason, that didn’t happen. To be honest, I can’t believe it actually did happen in 2021. So many cruises and flights were cancelled, so many borders were closed, that the fact I made it to Antarctica as a solo female backpacker at all is a miracle.
Antarctica is an incredible place I wish more people could see. If you’re on the fence about trying to make it to the seventh continent, here are a few of many reasons why you should visit Antarctica while you can (although personally I would wait until a certain p-word is over before travelling there, as at the moment all the travel restrictions and cancellations make it a lot more stressful than it should be).
Want to know what other amazing places I’ve visited? Check out the Where I’ve Been page!
1. The Landscape
If you’ve been to Scandinavia or Canada in the winter, then a vast snowy landscape won’t be that new to you. But apart from a couple of cabins at a seasonal research base, you won’t find any towns on the Antarctic Peninsula. Not a road nor an electricity pole in sight. It’s pristine, mostly untouched by humans, the snow perfectly smooth except for the tracks made by your expedition guides and the penguins waddling from their nests to the sea.
I always thought of Antarctica as being a flat plain of ice and snow, but the peninsula is much more mountainous than you’d expect, the dark rock contrasting beautifully with the white snow and blue skies. But one of the most stunning features of the Antarctic landscape is the icebergs. All shapes and sizes, you’ll be hard pressed to believe that vibrant glacier blue colour coming from the cracks is actually real. Silently floating by, they are a wonder to behold. If you’re lucky enough to go kayaking on your trip to Antarctica, then you’ll get an even closer view (though your guides won’t let you near the big ones, as icebergs can tip over at any point, creating dangerous waves).
2. The Peace and Quiet
The cruise ships that journey to Antarctica range in size from about a hundred passengers to huge liners carrying five or six hundred (if you can, I highly recommend taking the former). Either way, the ships can be a little noisy, with packed meal times, announcements of landings or wildlife sightings echoing over the speakers, boisterous passengers (ranging from the backpacker to the rich retiree) clinking glasses in celebration of the start of the journey to Antarctica in the Observation Lounge. But once you step off the ship and onto the peninsula, that all fades away (unless you happen to be near a penguin colony – those little guys are loud!). The most lasting impression Antarctica left on me was a sense of space. Room to breathe that’s getting harder and harder to find in this increasingly busy world. From the massive open skies and the rippling ocean, to the huge icebergs and tall, pointed mountain peaks, Antarctica is just, well, big. Sitting in the snow, staring out over bays and glaciers, all the stress of the previous few months, all the anxiety of wondering if the trip would go ahead, all the expense, just disappeared into the frosty air.
3. The Wildlife
As a zoologist, wildlife is a huge part of why I travel, and Antarctica did not disappoint. Though of course wildlife sightings can never be guaranteed, your chance of seeing penguins is pretty much 100%. Gentoos, Chinstraps and Adelies all call the Antarctic Peninsula home, and you’ll never forget the sight (or smell!) of your first penguin colony. Hundreds of little tuxedoed birds gathered around muddy nests, continuous squawking and the odd lone penguin waddling a well-worn track from colony to sea. They’re curious creatures, often stopping to look at you, sometimes even waddling closer. Just remember that these are wild animals, and it’s dangerous to touch or feed them.
Penguins aside, you can look forward to frequent whale sightings, both from the outer decks of your ship, or right on the surface while on a zodiac cruise. Arctic and Antarctic terns flitting overhead or nesting in the rusting remains of a shipwrecked whaling boat, huge albatrosses following alongside your ship as it motors through the Drake Passage. And lounging on floating ice floes could be leopard seals, elephant seals, crabeater seals, fur seals, the possibilities are endless. And I haven’t even mentioned the dolphins or the orcas!
4. The Seventh Continent
Many of the people I met on my cruise from Ushuaia were like me – adventurers looking for their seventh continent. I didn’t deliberately leave Antarctica until last, that’s just the way my travels worked out, but it did make that first landing, when I stepped off the zodiac onto the rocky, snowy shore, all that more special because in that moment I had completed my biggest travel goal. I surprisingly wasn’t the only Antarctica backpacker on the cruise, with many others around my age.
Whether it’s your seventh continent or not, Antarctica is a really special place, and if you do want to hit that goal of all the continents, you’ll have to go there eventually.
5. The Bragging Rights
How many people do you know that have been to Antarctica? Not many, if any, I’m guessing. So imagine being able to return home after an incredible cruise and telling your friends and family how amazing it was. There will be more than a few jealous faces, I’m telling you. It’s a huge achievement, getting to the end of the world. It’s also a huge privilege, a once in a lifetime experience that not many get to have, so appreciate it.
Reasons not to visit Antarctica as a backpacker
A trip to Antarctica may not be for everyone, and it certainly isn’t the easiest place to get to. For some, the great experiences I listed above may not be enough to overcome the challenges. As I said before, you are extremely privileged if visiting the frozen continent is a possibility for you. Here are some reasons why going to Antarctica as a backpacker may not be for everyone.
1. The Expense
The number one reason most people don’t visit Antarctica is because of how insanely expensive it is. My 10-day trip cost me about the same as what I’d normally spend on six months backpacking (and that’s not including flights, see more cost information at the bottom of this post). It was an easy decision for me, as visiting Antarctica and my seventh continent as a backpacker had been number one on my travel bucket list for as long as I could remember, but each person will have to weigh up their options and decide if it’s the right thing for them too, especially considering how cheap some South American countries can be to backpack in.
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2. The Long Journey
Crossing the Drake Passage – the stretch of ocean between South America and the Antarctic Peninsula – takes on average about two and a half days. Longer if the weather doesn’t cooperate, which is often doesn’t. It’s a long way, and that’s not even taking into consideration getting to Argentina and all the way south to Ushuaia in the first place (though if you’re a budget backpacker like me, used to overnight buses, the long journey to Antarctica probably won’t feel all that much!). The staff onboard your ship will try to keep boredom away during those first and last days with interesting presentations on the wildlife, history and ecology of the continent, and of course there are the great meals and bar to take up your time too. But life on a cruise ship isn’t for everyone, especially those who suffer from number 3.
3. The Seasickness
Whoo boy, the seasickness. Lucky travellers crossing the Drake Passage in good weather can find smooth seas and a light breeze, perfect for whale and bird watching. My boat did not cross in smooth seas and a light breeze, let me tell you. One of the first things our Expedition Leader told us as the ship left port in Ushuaia was that we were in for a Purple Monster – a weather system about as bad as it gets. Ten-meter waves and winds just a step below hurricane had the ship rolling from side to side and me spending two days in bed. And I certainly wasn’t the only one. With a scopolamine patch behind my ear and a warm duvet to snuggle under, I could have been a lot worse off. But two days of nausea, not being able to fully enjoy the delicious meals or socialise at the bar could be enough to turn you off the journey altogether. But don’t let it! Antarctica is worth it.
And if you’re one of those people that doesn’t get seasick, I’m so ridiculously jealous of you.
4. The Short Time There
Though cruises to Antarctica start at 10 days, only four of those will actually be spent there. And that’s with no bad weather preventing any landings or zodiac cruises. It might seem strange to spend so long journeying to a place, and not so much time actually being there. I think the journey’s worth it, but others may not.
5. The Increase in Tourism and its Impact on the Environment
Like so many places around the world, Antarctica is seeing an increasing number of visitors every year (2020 and 2021 excluded, obviously). And the unfortunate truth is that the more people that visit, the greater the impact (generally negative) the place feels. One of the best things about Antarctica is how empty and pristine it is, and while I would love for more people to experience its wonders, I also hope it stays that way for as long as possible. I can’t speak for all cruise companies, but I know some of them make a huge effort to make their expeditions as environmentally-friendly as possible. Offsetting the carbon footprint of your flights to and from Argentina could also help. But I know the idea of potentially contributing to the degradation of such a fragile ecosystem could be enough to turn some away from making the trip themselves.
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Keep reading below for all the practical info you need to make this trip a reality for you!
Practical Information:
- When choosing a cruise company, there are several things to consider. The size of the ship will affect how long you get to spend on each landing, as due to the IAATO treaty that regulates Antarctic tourism, only 100 people from each ship can be on land at one time. This means the bigger the boat, the less time you get on land. It’s also really important that the cruise company is dedicated to preserving the natural environment of Antarctica. Look for one that focuses heavily on nature and that employs naturalists, biologists, scientists, etc. as their guides.
- I went with Oceanwide Expeditions, and I couldn’t have been happier. Their ships are smaller, the trips nature-focused, the guides amazing and the food is really good. They were also very strict with COVID regulations, as well as keeping all their guests both happy and obeying the rules (a fine line they were great at!) on and off the ship. I highly recommend.
- Days in Antarctica are usually split between two locations, and weather-permitting, you should get a landing and a zodiac cruise at each stop. Some companies offer kayaking and overnight camping excursions at an extra cost.
- Antarctic cruises range from ten days to over three weeks, with the longer trips obviously more expensive. Accommodation on board ranges from shared quad room to grand suites with private balconies. Prices for the classic 10-Day Discovery and Learning cruise with Oceanwide, start from around €5800 per person. In previous years, I heard of travellers waiting around for a couple of weeks in Ushuaia, constantly checking all the tour companies for last minute slots, though these are definitely getting harder to find. I met at least two people on my cruise that got great deals just days (or hours!) before embarkation, but this was also because of COVID cancellations, so I wouldn’t necessarily bank on this being an option in another year or two. But you never know, it could be worth a try!
- In terms of gear, it’s possible to rent snow pants, gloves, jackets and walking poles in Ushuaia before your trip if you don’t want to buy and carry your own all the way there. Heavy waterproof boots will be provided free of charge on the boat, and some companies even give free souvenir jackets! I brought my own jacket and gloves, rented snow pants and just wore a ton of layers. If you do choose the optional kayaking extra, I highly recommend bringing thick, waterproof gloves. My gloves were not waterproof and I genuinely thought I would get frostbite more than once.
- Internet is available onboard for an extravagant fee (though on the Hondius we were each given a complimentary 100Mb to start off). But I happily took this as an excuse to completely disconnect and fully immerse in the experience, and I recommend you do too!
- There are no direct international flights to Ushuaia, so you need to enter Argentina through Buenos Aires. As of February 2022, proof of full COVID vaccination is required, and you must fill in a government declaration when entering and exiting the country. Getting from Ushuaia Airport into town is really easy, just 5-10 minutes drive, and a taxi shouldn’t cost more than about $5.
- The Antarctic tourist season runs from November to March each year. I recommend staying in Ushuaia for a couple of days on either end of your trip, as the stunning Tierra del Fuego National Park is an easy bus ride away, and there are several nice hikes nearby. The town itself is very touristy, but there are plenty of restaurants and souvenir shops to choose from. I stayed in two different hostels, and liked them both. Yaghan Hostel has a large kitchen, perfect for that backpacker budget – necessary to help make up for the cost of the Antarctica cruise! – and a fantastic view over the harbour from some of its upper floor dorm rooms. It also has a great central location, just a couple minutes walk from everything. Antarctica Hostel has a lovely common area, is just a minute’s walk from a large supermarket and seems to be a bit of a backpacker hub. It’s located on the edge of town, so it’s a bit farther to walk to the centre (though still not much).
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Are you thinking of making the trip to Antarctica at some point in the future. If you ever do, let me know, I’d love to hear all your stories! I think it’s great that Antarctica is becoming a bit more accessible to the backpacker market. And if you have any questions I haven’t answered in this post, feel free to leave a comment or head to the Get In Touch page from the menu at the top of the site!
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