Baños – A Budget-Friendly, DIY Experience in Ecuador

Aside from Quito, Baños probably sees the most tourists anywhere in Ecuador. Nestled in a rainforest-filled valley beneath the shadow of an active (but generally safe) volcano, this is a lush, but busy destination that shouldn’t be missed while you’re traipsing around this incredible country. There is a ridiculous amount of things to do in the Baños area, from hiking and waterfall chasing, to zip-lining and canyoning. It’s the adventure capital of Ecuador, but unfortunately, most of the activities on offer come with a price tag, usually in the form of guided tours. If that’s not really your style (or budget), then I recommend spending two or three days in the area, and doing a smaller number of activities that can be done for cheap and without the need to get hauled around with a large crowd of fellow tourists, while giving yourself time to relax and take in the beautiful nature around you. Here are my suggestions for a budget-friendly, DIY Baños experience.

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Cycling the Ruta de las Cascadas

I’m a decent cyclist, but a nervous one, and while parts of the Ruta de las Cascadas were a little intimidating, I absolutely loved it. This is such a beautiful part of Ecuador, and hiring a bike to make your own way to the famous Pailon del Diablo waterfall (and past a few others along the way) is not only a really fun Baños activity, but is very budget-friendly.

Some of the cycling route is along the main road through the valley, so always be aware of your surroundings. There are four tunnels, but you only need to cycle through one because after that the cycle path diverges onto a special sometimes-cobbled path that hugs the side of the slope and has some seriously incredible views. I kept having to stop to take in a waterfall cascading down the opposite side of the valley. Some of these waterfalls even have ziplines crossing to them!

It takes around an hour to get to the Pailon del Diablo and the entire town that has sprung up around it. There are free bicycle parking spots at the gate to the waterfall area. If your legs are a little jelly-like after the excursion, then make sure to take a quick break before heading through the gate, because you’re in for a long, steep path with a lot of steps just to get to the main waterfall entrance. From here you can hear the deep rumbling of the powerful waterfall flowing through a narrow canyon in the rock. One of the reasons that this waterfall has become so famous is the winding steps carved into the rock below and to the side of the falls. Prepare to get a bit wet from the spray, especially if you crawl through the natural rock crevices and tunnels to get closer to the water flow!

There are two entrances to the Pailon del Diablo: the lower one, which I’ve just talked about, and the upper one. You need to pay a separate fee for both, but I think it’s worth it, especially if you cycled all this way! The upper area is usually busier, and you don’t see as much of the waterfall as you do from below, but you do get to cross a few very cool swinging bridges high above the falls and the surrounding rainforest.

Once finished at the Pailon del Diablo, most people head back to Baños, but the Ruta de Cascadas doesn’t end here. If, after all the cycling, you’re dying for a dip in cool water, then continue another two kilometres down the road to Machay Waterfall. More steps take you down to the bottom of the falls. There are almost no crowds here, and there are small changing rooms nearby. The rocks surrounding the water are very slippery, so be careful (I recommend wearing shoes). And the water is very cold, but it’s such a good feeling on a hot day, although you will be very sweaty again by the time you get back up those stairs.

If you’ve had enough exertion for the day (I wouldn’t blame you!) and don’t want to cycle all the way back to Baños, then there are trucks going from the town by Pailon del Diablo that take both passengers and bicycles. This is also great because while the journey from Baños is mostly flat and downhill, this does mean there will be some uphill on the way back. And because these trucks are so cheap, paying for a ride back to Baños is still very budget-friendly.

Total spend: $5 for bike rental, $2.50-7 for waterfall entries, $1.50 for return drive = $11-15.50!

Hiking to Casa del Árbol

If your day of cycling wasn’t enough exercise for you, then you need to hike to Baños’ other most famous attraction – the Casa del Árbol swing, also known as the Swing at the End of the World. The swing was made famous in 2014 after a photo was published in National Geographic of the swing in front of a smoking volcano, leading to a steadily-increasing stream of visitors since. The treehouse was originally built – and continues to this day – as a place from which a local man could observe nearby Tungurahua, the active volcano in whose shadow Baños sits, his two-way radio allowing him to issue warnings if the volcano starts to rumble.

There are frequent tours and local buses that will take you up to Casa del Árbol, but there’s also a free option: a steep 3-hour climb up the mountain. The trail can be a little confusing, but you’ll be alone for most of it, and the views as it winds through forest and around pastures and crop fields only get better the higher you go. Be prepared with a lot of water, however, as there are no spots to refill along the way.

The Swing at the End of the World is no longer the only swing in the area, with other businesses taking advantage of the demand, though none of the others have a lovely little treehouse. I found this hike very gruelling, but then again, I’m not exactly the fittest. I thought I was lost several times, but eventually I found my way to the mountain ridge, where, to my surprise, just below the Casa del Árbol area (close enough to hear the delighted screams), I found two small swings completely isolated near the winding road. With not another soul around, I set down my bag, took out my camera and enjoyed a solo swing over a small ledge (scaring the crap out of a trio of goats in the process). The photos may not have had a volcano in the background, but I love them anyway. These swings being free makes this Baños activity even more budget-friendly!

Just a few minutes more takes you up to the main swing area. If you’re lucky, there won’t be much of a queue; if not, you could be waiting up to half an hour for a turn on the famous swing. And if you’re really lucky, Tungurahua will show her face from behind the near-constant clouds around her peak.

If you’re here solo and want some photos, you will need to ask someone nearby to take your pictures, as there isn’t really anywhere suitable for a tripod (and timing is an issue). Hopefully you’ll get luckier than me and get someone who has even basic knowledge of how to compose a photo.

If you don’t want to hike back down (again, I wouldn’t blame you), there are local buses you can catch from just outside the swing back into Baños.

Total spend: $3 entry, $1 return bus = $4!

Soaking in the Hot Springs

It would be a bit silly to talk about things to do in Baños without mentioning the reason the town got its name in the first place: the hot springs. The town’s name is officially Baños de Agua Santa, after all, so it’s no surprise some believe the waters – heated geothermally by Tungurahua – have healing properties. There are several thermal baths in the area, including one right on the edge of town beneath a cascading waterfall. This hot spring, called Piscinas de la Virgen, is very popular with locals.

There are several other hot springs in the area if you want somewhere a little less crowded than the central, ranging from basic to high-end luxury.

Total spend: from $3 depending on which baths you go to.

Wandering Baños – the most budget-friendly option of all!

While I wouldn’t consider Baños the prettiest town in South America (or even Ecuador), it’s still nice to walk around and get a feel for the place, nestled against the steep hills and waterfalls. As one of the country’s most popular destinations, it has unfortunately become very touristy, with lines of cheap souvenir stalls around the main square and a gaudy tourist train roaming the streets. Still, there are some fantastic cafes and veggie-friendly restaurants in the area, and the fact that there is a waterfall right on the edge of town definitely earns Baños some bonus points.

The Church of the Virgin of the Holy Water (Nuestra Señora del Agua Santa) dominates the main square, impressively-imposing on the outside and beautifully-painted on the inside. It’s an important pilgrimage site, with a religious festival taking over the area every October.

Whenever I visit a town or city, simply walking the streets is often one of my favourite things to do. And of course, there’s usually no cost involved, so this is the most budget-friendly thing you could do in Baños!

Total spend: free!

How to get to Baños

Because it’s such a popular destination in Ecuador, getting to Baños is really simple. There are multiple bus routes that end here, including from Quito to the north and Cuenca and Guayaquil in the south. If there isn’t a direct bus with space on the day you want to go there, simply hop on a bus to the nearby town of Ambato, where there are regular buses heading to Baños, just an hour away.

If you’re coming from Quito, make sure you head to the correct station – the one you want is Terminal Terrestre Quitumbe, in the southern end of the city. It takes about 3-4 hours to reach Baños from Quito.

Baños is about 6 hours from both Guayaquil and Cuenca, and about 2 hours from Latacunga.

If you have the budget for it and don’t want the hassle of waiting around in bus stations, it’s also possible to get a private car transfer.

Once you’re ready to leave, simply head back to the central bus station, from where buses head north towards Quito, south towards Guayaquil and east towards the Amazon, wherever you’re heading to next on your Ecuadorian adventure.

More Things to Do in Baños (that aren’t so budget-friendly)

Compared to other countries (especially western countries), the activities available to visitors aren’t super expensive. However, if you’re on a budget then these can really add up during your time in Baños.

• Bungee jumping
• Canyoning
• White-water rafting
• Rock Climbing
• Paragliding
• Zip lining

Booking a tour can be the easiest and most hassle-free way to experience what Baños has to offer, so if you prefer not to go the DIY route, then check out some of the tours available on Get Your Guide:

Budget Accommodation in Baños

Where I stayed: Papacho’s Hostel. This large hostel has great rooftop views over the town and nearby waterfall, as well as multiple common areas and a kitchen. A short walk from the centre of town, the only downside is that it’s up a bit of a hill. It’s not luxurious, but it’s comfortable and clean and certainly one of the more budget-friendly options in Baños.

Practical Information:

• Currency: US dollar
• Language: Spanish is the official language of Ecuador, with 97% of the population speaking it. Quechua and other pre-colonial languages are still spoken in rural areas. In areas frequented by tourists, it is generally easy to find people who speak English, especially in hospitality. But some basic Spanish will definitely go a long way when travelling in Ecuador.
• Bike rental: there are so many tour agencies in Baños, many of which have bike rental available, so you shouldn’t have any problem getting one. If you plan on cycling the Ruta de las Cascadas, then I recommend heading to the bike shops as soon as they open at 8am. This means you should miss most of the crowds at the waterfall too. Bike rental is typically around $5 for the day, just make sure they include a helmet and bike lock.
• Eating out: Because it has become such a popular tourist destination, Baños has a huge variety of cafes and restaurants to choose from, no matter what your budget is. It’s easy to find everything from local dishes to pizza, diner-style cafes to European pubs and anything in between.

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