A city within a city. These two ancient places have stood entwined for millenia, but the Vatican City we know today is less than 100 years old, having gained independence in 1929. Technically a theocracy, a form of elective monarchy, the Pope holds absolute power within the 2km-long walls surrounding the city state. A day trip to the Vatican is an absolute must when visiting Rome.
The allure of the Vatican has held many under sway. The respect it commands is known worldwide. In fact, such was the respect held for the seat of the Catholic Church that German troops left it alone as a neutral territory during the occupation of Rome in 1943.
Vatican City can easily be seen in half a day during a visit to Rome (read my complete guide to visiting Rome here), but there’s so much to see within the various sites that you could stretch your time here for as long as you wanted.
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Planning your day trip to the Vatican:
Everyone’s day trip to the Vatican is different, but if you want to spend less time queuing and more time taking in the historic sights around you, this is the order I recommend visiting the main attractions:
St. Peter’s Square — Vatican Museums — St. Peter’s Basilica — Climbing the dome
St. Peter’s Square
My number one tip for spending a day in the Vatican? Don’t rush.
Pause while stepping over the boundary line between the Vatican and the rest of Rome and enjoy the feeling of standing in two countries at once – without the hassle of border control.
The reason I recommend seeing St. Peter’s Square first, instead of walking directly to the Vatican Museums entrance (which is technically in Rome) is because I think it’s good to get an overall perspective of the scale of the square and the Basilica before venturing inside. I like to see the whole of a place if possible before I start exploring.
St. Peter’s Square isn’t actually a square. Made up of two sections, the area closest to the Basilica is a trapezoid shape, designed to make the facade of the church as imposing as possible using the limited space, while the second area is oval-shaped, its curving rows of Doric columns one of the state’s most recognisable features.
People watching in the square is a great way to get a feel for this tiny state. Don’t just run off into the Basilica or spend your time queuing and staring at your phone. Take at look at the people around you – not all of them are tourists. This is a country after all, with a population of around 450 (including a certain well-known priest), so to some people it’s a day-to-day part of their lives. And that’s intriguing.
The piazza itself has a few things worth looking out for. The obelisk in the centre dominates, having stood in that spot since its arrival from Egypt in 37AD. It’s known as “The Witness” because it was supposedly within view of the crucifixion of St. Peter. And any movie buff will know to look down at the surrounding cobbles for the Wind Rose carvings by Bernini, one of which features in the Angels and Demons film. And hidden past the right-hand columns is a Vatican Post Office, its colourful yellow post box easily spotted against the stone walls. Fun fact: the money made from selling Vatican postage stamps is a large chunk of the city state’s economy!
Vatican Museums
If you purchase your tickets online you should decide if you want to pay the extra few euros to skip the queue. It’s a risk that will probably pay off, though it didn’t for me. The queue for the Vatican Museums is legendary, so it was with great confusion that I followed the outer walls of the tiny nation and didn’t find it. Instead, I found myself walking straight through the empty doors and thinking of the gelato I could have spent that money on instead. But of course, it totally depends on the time of year (I went in March). So it’s up to you if you want to risk it.
The Vatican Museums house the largest collection in the world, over 70,000 items, but less than one-third are actually on display. The museums are laid out in a linear path, meaning you get a chance to see everything on display without getting lost or skipping anything accidentally. Some of the most amazing things you can see are the Gallery of Maps, paintings by Leonardo da Vinci, the Sala Rotunda, Egyptian mummies and, of course, the famous spiral staircase right at the beginning.
The tour of the Museums finishes at the Sistine Chapel, a place I had spent so long wanting to visit it had become almost mythological. Because I had only seen the chapel in art history text books, the brightness of the colours took me by surprise. It seemed almost as if Michelangelo had only just put the finishing touches on the ceiling, not five hundred years previously.
The reason I suggest visiting the Museums before the Basilica on your day trip to the Vatican is because if you’re lucky (and sneaky), from the Sistine Chapel you can skip the long queue into St. Peter’s Basilica and save yourself some precious time.
Once you’ve finished taking in the wonders of the Sistine Chapel (but not photographing it, otherwise you will get caught, you will get escorted out by a guard, and you won’t be able to take advantage of my next piece of advice), head to the back of the room. To the left lies the regular exit, which takes you back out onto the streets of Rome and from where you would have to walk all the way around to the front of the miniature city again. To the right is a second door, through which only guided group tours are allowed. This leads to a short passage that brings you directly to the door of the Basilica, skipping that long queue entirely. Wait for a group to pass through, then subtly fall in behind them. The guards probably won’t even notice. The tour guide probably won’t either. Maybe they don’t care. Once you’re through the door, it’s unlikely anyone will say anything.
Boom, queue successfully jumped.
St. Peter’s Basilica
The crowning jewel in an already glittering crown.
The reputed burial site of the Catholic Church’s first pope, a church has stood on the site of his crucifixion for nearly two thousand years. The current Basilica, built between 1506 and 1626, is the largest Christian church in the world and contains a wealth of historical and artistic treasures, including Michelangelo’s Pietà. I was raised a Catholic (though I’m now an atheist) and our local church had a replica of his Pietà that I stared at every time I was dragged to Sunday Mass. It was such a strange moment for me to stand in front of the original.
Surprisingly, St. Peter’s Basilica is not a cathedral, nor is it the Pope’s official seat. That title belongs to the Archbasilica of St. John Lateran right across on the other side of Rome.
If you’ve been reading my blog for a while, you might have noticed I have a bit of an obsession with UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The entirety of the Vatican city-state is included on the WHS list as the Holy See, but I would have visited even if it wasn’t. A day trip to the Vatican was one bucket list item I was so excited to cross off.
Important to remember: the dress code typical of European churches applies here – knees and shoulders must be covered for both men and women. If traveling to Rome and the Vatican during the hot Italian summer, make sure to bring light clothing that will cover you when you want to enter a church.
Climbing the Dome
To go up the dome is an added charge on top of an already fairly expensive ticket, but in my view it’s definitely worth it. While you have to take in the view from behind steel bars (for your protection, it’s damn windy up there), it’s a singularly special moment to stare down at all those red-tiled roofs, especially down at the perfectly-symmetrical rounded piazza at the heart of the Vatican. On the other side you can even see down into the Vatican Gardens, another piece of the tiny city you have to pay extra to see.
I waited until the end of the day to go up to the dome, as I hoped to catch the sunset from the top. But unfortunately, sunset didn’t come quick enough, so I had to content myself with some lovely golden light and vaguely pink clouds before going back down the curving staircases. I was the last to leave, so for a few brief moments I had the whole of Rome and the Vatican all to myself.
Another reason to climb the dome is because you get to see the interior of the Basilica from a new angle. The tiny shapes of visiting tourists far below as you stand inside the dome itself really demonstrates just how big this place is. You also get the chance to see some of the artwork up close, which to my surprise turned out to be tiled mosaics, not paintings.
One thing I will say is this: I’m not the fittest person out there, not by a long shot, but I certainly thought myself capable of climbing 551 steps. Taking the elevator to the roof first costs extra (they really love those extras here), and I thought I’d save some money. However, if you wait until near the end of the day, the elevator becomes your only option to ensure you make it back down in time for closing. At first I was annoyed, but in the end I was very thankful, because just those last 320 steps were tough going. Don’t underestimate these stairs – if you’re not one hundred percent sure you can manage it, pay the extra few euros for that elevator ride. You’ll save yourself a lot of pain. Oh, and if you’re claustrophobic, the steps get narrower and narrower the closer to the top you get, to the point that even an average-sized person like me had to stoop. Prepare yourself mentally, but keep going. The view really is worth it.
Vatican Ticket Prices (as of April 2019):
- St. Peter’s Square: free. Open 24 hours a day.
- St. Peter’s Basilica: free. Open 7am – 6.30pm (winter), 7am – 7pm (summer).
- Basilica dome: €8 to walk the whole way, €10 to take the elevator part of the way. The ticket office does not accept cards, so make sure to bring cash with you. The dome is accessible until 5pm during winter or 6pm during summer, but admission closes at least half an hour before that, so plan accordingly.
- Vatican Museums: €17 for an unguided tour, including the Sistine Chapel. There is a €4 online booking fee. Audio guides cost an extra €7. For a full list of tours and ticket options, check the official Vatican Museums website.
Getting to the Vatican:
By Bus
The number 40 and 64 bus shuttle very frequently between Termini (Rome’s main train station) and the Vatican via the City Centre including the Piazza Venezia for the Roman Forum/Colosseum. Perfect for an easy day trip to the Vatican.
40 (Limited stop express) – Termini – Piazza Venezia – Argentina – Piazza Pia (for St Peter’s/Vatican)
64 – Termini – Piazza Venezia – Argentina – Vatican
62 – Repubblica – Spanish Steps – Piazza Venezia – Argentina – Vatican
81 – Vatican Museums – Piazza Imperatore (Spanish Steps) – Piazza Colonna (Trevi Fountain) – Piazza Venezia – Circo Massimo – Colosseum
19 (Tram) – Piazza Risorgimento (Vatican) – Villa Borghese
By Metro
There is a Metro stop (Ottaviano) just five minutes walk from both St. Peter’s Square and the entrance to the Vatican Museums. Line A joins the Vatican with the Archbasilica of St. John Lateran across the city, as well as the Termini train station.
Walking
On foot is arguably the best way to see Rome and Vatican City, and for both sight-seeing and budget reasons is my recommended way of getting to St. Peter’s Square. The Vatican is only 15-20 minutes walk from Piazza Navona, and the beautiful Castel Sant’Angelo and the Bridge of Angels is on the way, making a great pit stop.
Thinking of adding a day trip to the Vatican to your itinerary? Comment below with any questions, or tell me what you’re most excited to see.
Where to stay
Obviously you’re not going to be staying in the Vatican itself, but there are plenty of hostel options in Rome.
Other This Wild Life Of Mine city guides:
A Complete Guide To Visiting Rome
All My Favourite Places in Lisbon
Sofia – Why It Shouldn’t Be Overlooked Or Underrated
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Disclaimer: this page contains affiliate links. If you click on these links and make a purchase or booking, I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you, which will enable me to continue this blog.
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