I’m not the first person – and I certainly won’t be the last – to say that the Cusco and Sacred Valley region was my favourite place in Peru. The Sacred Valley may have won out over the other parts of the country I visited, but it was a lot closer than I expected, because every part of the country was amazing! To make the most of Cusco and the many, many things to do in the area around the city (not to mention allowing time for acclimatising to the altitude, which is not something you should overlook), you need 5 days at the bare minimum, though I recommend a week or more. The Sacred Valley is where the magic of Peru is most obvious.
Read more:
Cusco – beware the altitude!
A couple of weeks before arriving in Cusco, I spent a few days in Quito, Ecuador, which sits at 2850m high, and I felt no effects from the altitude. And since I didn’t fly direct from Lima to Cusco (which is quick and easy, but not really recommended if you want to avoid altitude sickness), instead bussing through the country and overlanding through the increase in altitude, I really thought I’d be fine. But clearly those extra few hundred metres made all the difference, because I spent the entirety of day 2 moving between my hostel bed and the bathroom. It was awful. So I highly recommend leaving an extra day or two in your itinerary if you can, just in case it happens to you too.
Exploring the city
Once the capital city of the mighty Incan Empire, Cusco is a beautiful mix of colonial cobbled streets, Instagram-worthy cafes and fascinating ancient stonework that still baffle scientists to this day with how they were made. The large Plaza de Armas dominates the old city centre next to the imposing Cusco Cathedral, which was built shortly after the fall of the Incan Empire in the 1530s, using the manpower of the city’s Incan inhabitants.
Of particular importance is Qorikancha, to the southeast of Plaza de Armas. Translating to “Golden Enclosure” or “Golden Courtyard” in the Quechua language, it was revered as the most sacred site in the Inca religion. The complex consisted of meticulously constructed stone walls adorned with gold leaf, showcasing the wealth and power of the empire. Made up of multiple temples, it was partially demolished following the Spanish conquest, and a Spanish colonial church, Santo Domingo, was built atop its foundations. Despite this, remnants of the original Inca architecture and artwork can still be seen. It’s an incredible place to visit during your time in Cusco, giving really important insights into the pre-colonial history of the city.
Saksayhuaman
An ancient Incan archaeological site located on the outskirts of Cusco, this monumental complex is renowned for its impressive megalithic stone walls, which are among the finest examples of Incan engineering and construction. Perched on a hill overlooking the city of Cusco, Saksayhuaman served as a formidable fortress and ceremonial centre during the height of the Incan Empire. The massive stone walls, with boulders reaching heights of up to 20 feet and weighing several tons, were meticulously cut and fitted together with astonishing precision. Saksayhuaman is the best viewpoint over Cusco, though hopefully you get better weather and visibility than I did!
It’s easy to get to Saksayhuaman from the city centre on foot, even though the 30-40 minute walk is mostly uphill with lots of steps. Taxis and buses can also take you there for a pretty cheap cost if you want to take it easy.
Sacred Valley
Cusco sits on the eastern edge of the Sacred Valley, one of the most-visited areas in all of Peru, which stretches 74km westward to Machu Picchu. There are so many incredible places to visit in this area, you’d need a couple of weeks to do it justice at the very least. But if you only have a few days, there are three locations that shouldn’t be overlooked. A place of profound beauty and cultural significance, it’s home to a patchwork of verdant terraced fields, quaint villages, and majestic archaeological sites.
Ollantaytambo
Often overlooked as just a pitstop for the hordes of tourists making their way to Machu Picchu, this small town and large archaeological site are more than worthy of a dedicated visit. The ancient Incan fortress that gives the town its name boasts towering terraces, intricate stone walls and a maze of cobblestone streets, offering visitors a glimpse into the region’s rich history and cultural heritage. Surrounded by imposing mountain peaks and lush greenery, Ollantaytambo is not only a marvel of engineering but also a quiet, picturesque destination in the Andean landscape.
Machu Picchu
Perched high in the Andes Mountains, this ancient Incan citadel boasts breathtaking views and is the reason many people come to Peru in the first place. One of the most famous sights in the world, it sees more than a million visitors every year. Rain or shine, fog or blue skies, this place is absolutely worth the hype (even if the weather doesn’t exactly cooperate). I got up while it was still dark and took the first bus to the gates, and was the first person at the viewpoint, only to see nothing but thick white clouds spread out below. I simply had to trust that I was in the right place. I sat on my backpack in a misty rain for two hours, determined to see that famous view, and while it could have been a miserable experience, the brief glimpses of stone walls through breaks in the cloud kept me going.
Once the clouds cleared (mostly) and I got my view, I wandered down the path with the now many people who had stayed in bed a few hours longer into the main complex, where I was blown away by the scale and ingenuity of the place. I loved every second of it, and by the time I reached the final section before the exit, the sun was shining brightly and there were llama moms and babies squeezing past me on the paths.
Like I said, worth the hype.
There are multiple ways to visit Machu Picchu, and which one you take definitely depends on how much time you have, your level of fitness and your budget. Taking the bus to Ollantaytambo and then the train to the nearby town of Aguas Calientes is the quickest and cheapest way to do it, though many may feel they’ve missed a true adventure this way. I had neither the time nor the budget nor the fitness for any other option, and I’m pretty happy with my experience. If you have all three of these requirements, then the famous Inca Trail hike or the more challenging but quieter Salcontay Trek are increasingly popular options that take multiple days and require pre-planning and longer than a week to spend in Cusco (unless you’re happy to do little else).
Pisac
The Sacred Valley can be a really busy place, which shouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone. If you’re craving a little peace and quiet, then I highly recommend visiting Pisac, a small town less than an hour from Cusco by bus. On Sundays there is a large local market taking up the centre of the town, but visit any other day and it’ll be a very quiet place. But the real incentive to travel here is high up on the top of the mountain overlooking the town in the valley below.
Here you will find the Pisac Archaeological Park, possibly my favourite ruins in all of Peru (though it’s hard to put Machu Picchu in the same box as the others). Even though I had done some research on this, the sheer breadth of Incan remains dotted along the ridgeline high above the valley floor completely blew me away. Most visitors take a taxi to the top, check out the main section of the ruins, then taxi back down to the town. Some people hike all the way up the trail and back again. I think the best way to do Pisac is a mixture of the two – taxi up and hike down. Since the trail is out-and-back, you don’t miss anything by driving up to the top, and it’s a much easier trail on the way down!
As the taxi climbs up from the valley to the peak (about a 15-minute drive), you’ll pass Incan terraces on the left, with the views only getting better as you increase in altitude. Shortly before the main entrance is the ticket office, where you can either purchase a ticket or show your Boleto Turistico. The first few sections of Pisac will have more visitors than the rest, and are great for wandering around before you start along the trails that meander back down to the town, through religious sites, guard towers and villages.
If you’re doing the drive up/walk down way, then you’ll need 2-4 hours depending on how much lingering you do at each stop, of which there are many.
Rainbow Mountain
Okay, so technically Rainbow Mountain isn’t in the Sacred Valley, but it’s possible to visit as a (long) day trip from Cusco, so I’m including it because it’s a great (if exhausting) experience. Located high in the Vinicunca mountain range, this geological marvel showcases a breathtaking spectrum of colours, ranging from deep reds and yellows to greens and blues, all created by mineral deposits in the rock layers.
Visiting Rainbow Mountain on a day trip involves leaving Cusco very early in the morning and driving several hours along winding mountain roads, with a short breakfast stop along the way. Once you get to the start of the hiking trail, you’ll find a number of snack and souvenir stalls, locals with dogs and horses for those who don’t want to walk, and stunning panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. With an altitude of more than 5000m, the trail can be challenging, with steep ascents, so it’s important to wear sturdy hiking boots and bring plenty of water, snacks and sunscreen. And take lots of breaks to catch your breath, because you will definitely be feeling it!
It takes a couple of hours to reach the famous viewpoint. And keep in mind that the viewpoint will be incredibly busy, so taking photos without the crowds will take a bit of creativity. Also worth remembering is that many of the photos you’ve undoubtedly seen online show incredibly vibrant colours, but the reality will not look like this. Even my own photos are edited to look a bit more saturated, mostly because it was quite a grey day when I was there, and the hills do look more colourful in sunlight.
Personally, I didn’t like the use of horses here, because some didn’t look in the best condition, and who knows how many times per day they’re made to travel the rocky paths with tourists of various sizes on their backs? So I recommend getting the full experience and using your own two feet.
Also, I feel it’s worth mentioning that the reason Rainbow Mountain is even visible, when it wasn’t a decade ago, is because climate change has melted the snow and ice that previously hid the striped landscape from view. So while it’s beautiful, it’s also quite sad. This means you do need to be careful to protect the fragile ecosystem, by sticking to the trail and leaving nothing behind.
Other places to visit:
Maras & Moray
While I unfortunately didn’t have a chance to visit these two places, they definitely look beautiful and fascinating enough to warrant a day trip. Though they are in close proximity to each other, there are no public transport options, so it’s best to visit as part of an organised tour, or if you’re part of a group (or have the budget) you can hire a taxi driver from Cusco to take you there and back and wait while you take in the sights.
Maras is renowned for its mesmerizing salt pans, where thousands of terraced pools cascade down the mountainside, creating a striking patchwork of white against the vibrant Andean landscape. The intricate network of channels allows mineral-rich spring water to flow through, evaporating and leaving behind crystallized salt, a tradition dating back to pre-Columbian times. Nearby, Moray presents an equally intriguing sight with its enigmatic circular agricultural terraces carved into natural depressions in the earth. Believed to have been an agricultural laboratory for the Incas, the varying microclimates within these concentric rings allowed for the cultivation of a wide array of crops.
Definitely places I wish I had made it to!
Where I stayed
Viajero Hostel Cusco: this small chain of hostels can be found in three different places in Peru – Cusco, Paracas and Lima. Each one is spacious, beautifully decorated and with great facilities (although the one in Cusco didn’t have a shared kitchen, which was a downside for me, but it did have a bar and a great buffet breakfast each morning). See other options for accommodation in Cusco here.
The Sacred Valley’s Boleto Turistico
Purchasing a Boleto Turistico when you get to Cusco is not just a good idea, it’s absolutely essential. Most of the attractions in and around Cusco and the Sacred Valley can only be entered with this combined pass – single entry tickets are not available. There are a couple of options when purchasing – the full 10-day pass that includes everything, or a 2-day pass that will cover multiple Cusco ruins OR museums in Cusco OR ruins in the Sacred Valley, depending on which circuito you choose. I highly recommend getting the full 10-day pass, as not only is it a pretty decent price for so many amazing places, but it’s also a fun little bucket list that gets punched each time you visit a place.
The full 10-day costs s/.130 (€32/$35) or s/.70 for students (€17/$19 – 25 years and under, must have valid student ID), while the 2-day passes cost s/.70 per circuit. Prices valid as of February 2025. Bear in mind, the boletos are valid from the day you buy it, not the day you first use it. Boleto turisticos can be purchased at the entrance to most of the sites included in the ticket, or from the main COSITUC office on Avenida El Sol 103 in Cusco. They don’t have an online system to buy, but you can actually get one through GetYourGuide, which is very conveniently delivered to your accommodation in Cusco!
There are definitely times when my visit to Cusco and the Sacred Valley feels like a bit of a fever dream. There were just so many incredible places packed into a relatively small area, and I didn’t even see it all! But it was certainly a highlight of Latin America for me.
Are you dreaming of visiting the Sacred Valley? Let me know where you’re most excited to go!
Like this post? Pin it for later!
