Experiencing the Arctic Summer with Frontiers North

Churchill, Manitoba. Home to 900 humans and (in winter) 3000 polar bears. It’s no wonder it’s called the Polar Bear Capital of the World. I wasn’t sure how visiting this remote northern town would fit into my cross-Canada roadtrip, as I would likely be far in the west by the time bear season rolled around, but when I discovered there’s a small chance of seeing the first landbound bears in July, I knew I had to take this opportunity. So I booked a hotel, a train and a tour with Frontiers North.

Churchill isn’t easy to get to. Well, it’s easy, but not cheap. Situated in the far north of Manitoba on the shores of Hudson Bay, there are no roads joining the town with the rest of Canada. You can only get there by plane or by train. The railway line was washed away in floods in 2017, and only started back up again in December 2018. I decided instead of getting the train from Winnipeg (a journey of over 40 hours), I would drive to Thompson, the last large town on the way north, and catch the train from there (18 hours), saving both time and money.

The Tundra Buggy with Frontiers North

My overnight train from Thompson was due to arrive in Churchill at 9am in the morning, but as I learned along the way, the trains NEVER arrive on time. So it was with a little trepidation that I watched as we pulled into the station a little before noon, knowing I had my tour with Frontiers North booked for 1pm. Lucky for me, Churchill is so small it took me one minute to walk to my hotel, and I even had enough time to get changed, relax for a little bit and walk up to the tour office/giftshop (while also stopping in a couple of other shops along the way) in time for my tour.

The Tundra Buggy Summer Tour starts with a 20 minute bus journey out of town and out into the wildlife reserve where the giant vehicles wait for their passengers. Requiring steps and a platform to get into, the Buggies have arctic-ready tyres almost as tall as I am. I thought they wouldn’t be needed at this time of year, but boy was I wrong.

Built to accommodate up to 40 passengers, our small group of nine were more than comfortable inside Buggy 17, with our driver and tour guide “Buggy Bob” ready to set off immediately. With his grey ponytail and rugged appearance, Buggy Bob seemed right at home in the subarctic landscape. A retired zookeeper who has been driving these Buggies for 17 years, he was a wealth of knowledge about the wildlife we came across.

I had my fingers (and toes) crossed for a polar bear to cross our path, but I always knew it was a long shot.

The paths we followed through the subarctic landscape were built in the 1940s/50s by the military, who used to occupy this area, using it for missile testing and research. But when they left in 1968, there was no one to maintain the gravel roads. Thankfully the Buggies travel slowly, because it’s a bumpy ride! Summer rain and melting ice means that the many ponds flood the paths, so those giant tyres definitely came in handy.

Summer Wildlife

Yes, I came to Churchill to see polar bears. Yes, I was disappointed I didn’t see them. No, I don’t regret coming all this way. There are so many other animals in this landscape, many of which I had never seen before. I was especially excited to tick three species off my wildlife bucket list – arctic tern, bald eagle and caribou.

Side note: did anyone else know that caribou and reindeer are the same, reindeer are just domesticated? Because I didn’t, and as a zoologist, I’m feeling pretty ashamed about it!

The subarctic landscape surrounding Churchill felt pretty quiet at times, but that’s to be expected this time of year. There were plenty of birds to be seen, large and small, including a pair of arctic terns dive bombing one of our tour members for daring to venture too close to their nest. One of them managed to clip him on the head, which was entertaining, to say the least!

Nature never fails to surprise me. It’s not just filled with beauty, it’s also full of bravery. I’ve seen tiny hyena cubs chasing grown males away from their group, elephants mock-charging humans in defense of their young, monkeys attempting daring thievery for food. And now I’ve seen a gull dive bomb a much larger eagle over and over again to drive it away from its nest. This gull was persistent, flying at the large predator multiple times until it gave up and flew away, only to be followed by the gull for some distance. It was impressive to watch, that’s for sure.

But the highlight of the tour was definitely seeing not one, but two caribou wandering the landscape. First was the male, who Buggy Bob somehow managed to spot in the far distance against the backdrop of the Hudson Bay shoreline.

Because of the set paths, and the strict rules Frontiers North have about sticking to them to prevent damage to the vulnerable ecosystem of the summer Churchill landscape, it’s luck of the draw how close you can get to an animal. Both the male and female caribou were fairly far away, and even with my zoom lens it was hard to see them clearly. Especially the female, who sat resting in the rolling fog. Her light colouring blended perfectly with the rocky pond shore, which made it even more impressive that Buggy Bob saw her from so far away. The many years he has spent driving these tours was clear over and over again as he continually spotted wildlife the rest of us never would have seen.

Churchill’s Subarctic Landscape

This was something I’d never seen before. Deserts, rainforests, savannahs, jungle, beaches, yes, but tundra? Not until now. Churchill has a unique landscape because it’s located at an ecotone – an area where multiple ecoregions cross over. Here you find the end of the boreal forest, and the beginning of arctic tundra and the maritime system of Hudson Bay. The harsh climate has meant few trees, with those conifers that do grow being stunted. Flag trees are common, where one half of the tree has little or no branches because of strong winds. They’re actually really cool.

It was hard to imagine this place in winter, when the green grasses and yellow wildflowers are replaced by thick ice and snow. All the shallow ponds we pass freeze completely at that time of year, so there are very little fish here. There were definitely reminders of winter, though, especially when looking out over Hudson Bay. I was so excited to see icebergs sitting on the horizon, the last of the sea ice painting a long white line between water and sky. Somewhere out there were the bears I came to see. But as the ice wasn’t fully broken up, there was no need for them to swim to shore just yet. Another few weeks and I might have seen some early bears.

Next time…

With the effects of climate change being felt more and more around the world, places like Churchill are certainly vulnerable to issues like rising temperatures and sea levels. But one thing in its favour is the fact that the land around Churchill is actually rising at one of the fastest rates in the world. After thousands of years being pushed down by heavy glaciers, now that they’re gone the earth here is rebounding at a rate of nearly a centimetre a year. So the land is literally changing beneath your feet.

Why You Should Choose Frontiers North For Your Buggy Tour

There are many reasons why I recommend choosing Frontiers North for your tours when you visit Churchill:

• Their environmental policies. A quick read of the Frontiers North website will show you just how committed this organisation is to protecting the environment they call home. From their no-plastic-water-bottles policy to the way they strictly stay to the designated paths to using only recycled paper for their brochures, this is one very environmentally-friendly company. They even created the town’s first recycling system – how many tour companies can say that?
• Their national recognition. Frontiers North has won many awards for their achievements in both tourism in the region and their environmental practices, including a Canadian Tourism Lifetime Achievement Award, a Travel Manitoba Partnership Award, and a Responsible Travel and Tourism Forum Leadership Award.
• Their staff. All the staff at Frontiers North are extremely knowledgeable about everything Churchill-related, from the history to the wildlife to the fascinating landscape. There’s always a tidbit of interesting information on offer during the tour, and there was never a question they couldn’t answer. With decades of experience between them, you know you’re in safe hands.
• Their food. The Tundra Buggy Summer Tour lasts approximately six hours, with a lunch break in the middle. The food provided is soooo good, and they accommodate different dietary requirements. I had a really tasty curry vegetable soup, a veggie wrap, fruit and a soft drink. Tea, coffee and hot chocolate are also available, as is fresh water, so don’t forget your reusable water bottles!
• And of course, a Tundra Buggy tour is the only way to experience this part of Churchill, as non-tour operators are not allowed to enter the wildlife reserve area. So it’s your only option if you want to see the landscape and wildlife here.

So Should You Go to Churchill During the Summer?

Yes, but maybe not when I did. Considering that Churchill’s big summer attraction – the beluga whales – can be seen from July to August, I would recommend visiting the area later in the season, as you have a much better chance of seeing polar bears on a Tundra Buggy tour, and you’ll also still get to see the whales. The tour itself is a great experience even without the bears, but as most people visit the area to see the polar bears, waiting a few weeks or a month could make a big difference in your chances. I visited in the first week of July, and the day after I left they had their first bear sighting of the season a ways up the coast.

Have you ever considered visiting Churchill or Canada’s northern regions?

Disclaimer: Many thanks to Frontiers North for having me on their Tundra Buggy Summer Tour, all opinions are my own.

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HOW TO INTERACT WITH WILDLIFE RESPONSIBLY

Never, EVER feed wildlife.

Enticing wildlife with food not only puts yourself in danger, but can lead to wildlife learning to depend on humans to survive or becoming more aggressive – neither of which are a good thing. Human food can also be dangerous to animals, making them ill or malnourished. Depending on where you are, feeding wildlife in national or provincial parks can also lead to hefty fines if you’re caught, so don’t risk it just for a photo op.

Mind your food and dispose of scraps properly.

Feeding wildlife can occur accidentally too, if left unattended or not thrown away correctly. When camping, hiking, or just out in nature, store any snacks or food in proper containers, and don’t leave food lying around unwatched. Even if you think there are no animals around, there probably are. And never leave food next to a rubbish bin. If the bins are full or you can’t find one, take it with you. Don’t be lazy!

Keep your distance.

Wildlife is unpredictable. Unless you’re very familiar with animal behaviour, it can be hard to tell how wildlife is reacting to a situation. Just because an animal looks calm, doesn’t mean it is. Certain times of the year have added dangers, such as mating seasons. Animals can be even more aggressive or volatile during these times, so extra caution is necessary. There have been too many instances of tourists getting too close to wildlife and getting injured, which usually leads to negative consequences for the animal as well.

A really good trick I learned was to use your thumb to check your distance. Hold out your hand and if you can cover the entire animal with your thumb, then you should be safe. If you can’t, back away slowly. Obviously the safe distance depends on the animal: deer need less, bears need more, etc.

Don’t touch.

If you’re lucky enough that an animal approaches you of their own free will, please don’t try to pat them. They’re not pets, they don’t enjoy it and it can spook them into doing something aggressive. Your touch can also be dangerous to some animals, particularly marine wildlife who have very sensitive skin. Whales, dolphins and sea turtles can be harmed by the chemicals often found on our skin from lotions, suncream and insect repellent.

Always be aware of your surroundings.

Many wildlife encounters become dangerous simply because the human wasn’t paying attention. When out in nature, always listen out for wildlife, don’t wear headphones, make noise and travel in groups if possible. Many animals are usually only aggressive when surprised, so giving them a chance to hear you coming and move away is always a good idea.

Stay calm.

Always important. If you’re surprised by wildlife, remain calm and don’t run. While the original intention of the animal is probably not to hunt, suddenly running or moving away may cause their chase instincts to kick in. Stay facing them and back away slowly.

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