Before I spent six months in Malawi, I had been to one music festival in my life, and though it was the biggest in Ireland at the time, it wasn’t an experience that had me excited for future festivals. So it took a little persuasion to get me to buy a ticket to Lake of Stars, Malawi’s biggest event and one of the few reasons someone might have heard of this small third-world country.
I’m so glad I did.
THIS is how festivals should always be…(maybe they are, I’m not really an expert here!).
A three-day event, Lake Of Stars is an eclectic mix of Malawian talent with international artists, some of which even I had heard of. Food stalls, art installations, tribal dance groups and craft shops vie for attention while the air is filled with anything from Malawian reggae to acoustic guitar to thumping house, depending on the time of day or night. The music never seems to stop, lasting late into the night and beginning early the next morning with yoga and zumba for all on the grass.
All of which would appear to be pretty standard for a music festival. But the one thing that elevates Lake of Stars in my mind is its location. True to its name, the festival is situated on Lake Malawi, usually in a different spot each year. Back in the late-19th century, Doctor Livingstone nicknamed Lake Malawi ‘the lake of stars’ in reference to the twinkling lights of fishing boats at night. The name stuck, and is still as true today as it was a century and a half ago. The 2016 festival was hosted by Chintheche Inn in Nkhata Bay, a four-hour drive north of Lilongwe, Malawi’s capital. Nkhata Bay must be one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen.
There are two ways to tackle Lake of Stars:
1. Do a disappearing act for the whole weekend, checking in with your friends maybe once a day when you’re slightly more sober, groggily unsure exactly what acts you’ve seen or if you’ve eaten that day, but completely convinced you’re having the time of your life.
2. Have a chilled-out, relaxing weekend of sunbathing, lying on the grass for hours listening to music you’ve never heard before and might never again, eating far too much food then heading to bed at a fairly decent hour so you’re ready for the next day of swimming, more sunbathing, more food and more good music.
3. Bonus points if you somehow manage to combing both these options, but I’m convinced you’d need actual superpowers.
If you know me at all, you’ll know immediately which option I went for.
Day 1
My first of three days of bliss was spent watching local dance groups performing on the grass, strolling along the gorgeous beach, feeling the energetic beat of a tribal drum group deep in my chest, eating surprisingly good food from the local stalls and realising that a love of music doesn’t disappear with age when a troupe of elderly Malawian dancers showed off their moves.
I also realised that many Africans have more moves in their little finger than I have in my whole body.
Then it was time to put on our bindis (because why not?) and dance barefoot for a few hours.
Day 2
The next morning, we watched as the more energetic people participated in free yoga and zumba classes, while we chilled on the grass nearby. While the Lake of Stars festival is mostly about music, they also showcase Africa art and fashion, with some of the top designers and newcomers promoting their work. I’ve always loved African art, so it was amazing to see the link they create between traditional and modern styles.
Not many festivals allow you the option of an afternoon nap, which we took full advantage of even though we’d expended exactly zero energy so far. That evening we headed over to another lodge nearby for a swim in the most stunning location, where we unashamedly took some selfies (wouldn’t you??), before heading back to the festival for some headliner acts and more dancing.
Day 3
On our final day at Lake of Stars, thanks to a limited amount of alcohol consumed and a few hours sleep, it was with clear heads we got up at 5am to watch the sun rise over the lake. It was a stunning sight, one I’ll remember for a very long time. Unwilling to go home to Lilongwe just yet, we took one last stroll around the festival grounds, watching the final performances and relaxing in the shade of the trees lining the coast line of Lake Malawi.
Lake of Stars was a completely unforgettable experience. I’m so grateful I was persuaded to go. It was certainly one of my best experiences of 2016.
Practical Info:
- Dates and ticket prices for Lake of Stars 2023 have not been announced yet (as of December 2022), but you should keep an eye on the Lake of Stars website for when they are. Early Bird weekend tickets for 2016 were 28,000 Malawian kwacha (a whopping €36/£31/US$39), with prices then rising to around 36,000MK. The festival took place from the 30th of September to the 2nd of October 2016. There hasn’t been a festival for a few years (for obvious reasons), but there are plans to bring it back for 2023.
- There are several accommodation options. Multiple lodges are available in the area, but camping is by far the easiest option. However, you have to book in advance, as places fill up fast. Camping for the weekend was approximately US$15 per night, so it works out at just a little more than the festival ticket if you stay three nights.
- Transport options include organised buses from Lilongwe and other major towns, taxis, hiring a driver, or renting a car for the weekend. Some of Malawi’s tour companies are involved with the festival, including Land & Lake and Central African Wilderness Safaris, offering package deals.
- There was at least one ATM that I saw, but every time we passed it there was a long queue, so I would recommend stocking up on enough cash to cover your weekend expenses.
- There were several stalls and a restaurant offering different food options, although vegetarians and vegans could be a bit limited. I managed fine. More stalls were set up just outside the festival gates, with cheaper prices.
- The bars don’t accept cash. To buy drinks you must first purchase tokens from…the bar. Seemed like one step too many, but hey, what do I know?
- Bags are searched on arrival, but when I say ‘searched’ I mean a brief pat down the sides of my backpack and a peek into a plastic bag I was carrying. Guess we worried about hiding our vodka, gin and granola bars for nothing!
I highly recommend checking out Lake of Stars if you find yourself anywhere near Malawi at that time of year. It was such an awesome weekend!
What has been your favourite festival you’ve ever been to? Tell me in the comments below!
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