If you’re only going to do one road trip in Andalucía, spending one day driving around the Pueblos Blancos has to be it. This large group of white-washed, red-roofed towns nestled in the green hills of southern Spain are one of the biggest draws for visitors. Exactly when these towns began their white-washing is still debateable; some say it dates back to medieval times, others that it wasn’t until the early twentieth century that it became a widespread practice. Either way, it cannot be disputed that this is a stunning part of Spain that has to be explored.
There are so many towns to choose from, far too many to see in a day (or even two) so you’ll have to pick and choose the ones you want to visit. Or you could follow my mini itinerary below for what I promise will be a jaw-dropping and amazing road trip!
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Starting Point: Seville
If you don’t have your own vehicle, head to Estación Santa Justa, the main train station in the city, where there are several different car rental companies. Book in advance and definitely get the insurance! Start out as early as possible to make the most of your day in the Pueblos Blancos. Once you’re on the road, head out of the city and into the beautiful Andalucían countryside.
This mini road trip can also be started from Malaga, which is a little bit closer, too.
First Stop: Zahara de la Sierra
This is one of the most magical towns I’ve ever seen. Just under two hours from Seville, the windy road approaching Zahara gives you continuous glimpses of the town – its white houses nestled into a steep hill by a dark blue reservoir, the ruins of a castle perched on the very top. It’s truly breath-taking. Just make sure to keep one eye on the road, as the view is very distracting! Find some parking, grab a quick café to get the blood flowing and head on up the steep, steep streets.
Wander around for a while, see the main square and the beautiful Church of Santa María de la Mesa built up against the cliff face (one of the only non-white buildings I saw all day), then follow the path winding around the hill. From there the views just get better and better, leading to a full panorama of the reservoir stretching off into the distance. When you reach the summit of the hill, you’ll find yourself at the Castillo, a Nasrid-era castle that’s at least 800 years old. Though mostly in ruins, the main keep has been reconstructed and is quite safe. Climb to the top of the tower and spend a few moments sitting in peace at the top taking it all in. The are other remains of walls and towers on the top of the hill have not been reconstructed – climb those at your own risk.
If you only have one day in the Pueblos Blancos, make sure Zahara de la Sierra is top of your to-do list!
Want to stay over? Check Zahara del la Sierra accommodation options.
Second Stop: Ronda
When you’ve managed to drag yourself away from beautiful Zahara, hop back in the car and continue south-east to Ronda. This is the largest and most famous pueblo blanco in the area. Ronda is a town divided in two by a narrow gorge, 120 metres deep. The famous Puente Nuevo bridges the gap between the two halves. It’s just as impressive, if not more so, from below, so once you’ve taken in the views from above, cross over to the southern side and walk to Plaza de María Auxiliadora. Follow the crowds (it’s a popular town – there will be a lot of people) down the winding path to the bottom of the gorge. You can even walk under the bridge, seeing the huge pillars up close and passing near the waterfall in front of it.
Back near the bridge, the Mirador de Aldehuela is a great lookout for another angle of Puente Nuevo. Though it is technically the newest of the three bridges crossing the El Tajo gorge, this bridge isn’t exactly “new” anymore, as it is more than 250 years old. The other two are much smaller but more impressive in age, with the Puente Arabe (also called the Roman bridge) still showing signs of the original Roman foundations and Moorish construction from the 11th century. Grab some food or just a drink from one of several bars offering cliff-side views of the Puente Nuevo before getting back on the road.
You could spend a whole day exploring Ronda, and I really wish I spent more time there so I could wander the old streets and see the other bridges up close. If you have more than one day to explore the Pueblos Blancos then I highly recommend more time in each one.
Want to stay over? Check Ronda accommodation options.
Third Stop: Setenil de las Bodegas – one of the most unique Pueblos Blancos
Looping back around in the direction of Seville, the last stop of the day is the unusual little town of Setenil. The white-washed buildings are all nestled on top of, between and – in some cases – even underneath the rocky cliffs of the Río Guadalporcún‘s bending gorge. The steep streets all seem to lead down to the water’s edge. One of the most incredible sights in this town are the buildings that have been constructed underneath the rock overhangs of the gorge, each one fitting in perfectly as if they were always there. It’s truly a unique sight.
I recommend climbing up to Mirador del Carmen for a great view across the town, taking in the ruins of the Moorish Castle on the opposite promontory. Then head back down and check out the two most interesting streets – Cuevas del Sol and Cuevas de la Sombra. The first lies along the river bank and is full of cafes with seating outside, perfect for lounging away an afternoon. Look up at the rocky ceiling and you’ll notice black stains on the underside – evidence of thousands of years of human inhabitance. Cuevas de la Sombra is even more impressive. Here the narrow street is entirely enclosed by rock, creating a half-natural, half-manmade tunnel with shops on either side. It’s really like nothing I’ve ever seen before.
Aside from the main attractions, one of the best things about Setenil de las Bodegas is that just by wandering around the side streets, you can find some incredible sights. Get lost in some narrow back alleys where the houses have three natural walls inside the cliffs, the whitewashed front the only man-made part of the buildings.
Want to stay over? Check Setenil accommodation options.
Once you’ve had your fill of exploring the Pueblos Blancos for the day, head back to Seville for a wine and tapas dinner! Or continue on to nearby Málaga for a glimpse of the Mediterranean Sea. Check out my post on the most beautiful places in Seville so that you don’t miss a thing!
Each of these towns has something unique to offer and are a perfect mini road trip from either Seville or Málaga. Of course there are plenty more Pueblos Blancos to see, but if you’re limited for time then I think this short itinerary gives you a really good, varied look at some of the famous white, rural Andalucían towns.
Read more: 5 Amazing Day Trips From Seville
Side note: one thing you should never leave home without is travel insurance. I get mine from SafetyWing, a company that not only covers COVID-19 treatment, but also automatically renews every month, giving you piece of mind that you’re always covered on your adventures. Did you forget to purchase travel insurance before leaving home? Not to worry! A SafetyWing policy can be started at any time, at home or abroad.
Have you ever been to one of the Pueblos Blancos? Or which of these three would you most like to visit? Tell me in the comments below!
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