This summer, I mentioned to a few people about my plan to visit Scattery Island and every time I was met with the same response: “where?”. That’s right, this little gem off the coast of County Clare isn’t on a lot of people’s radars. Which is such a shame, as it makes a wonderful half-day trip if you’re in the west of Ireland.
The only way to get to the island is by organised tour from Kilrush, a small town on the Shannon Estuary. The short ferry ride takes you through the harbour lock and out into the estuary. As you approach the island, the first thing you notice is the round tower rising above the low hills, a glimpse into Scattery’s long and storied history. Beginning as a monastery 1500 years ago, it was frequently plundered by the Vikings before being settled by them. Violence continued to be a part of the island’s life, with the Irish Kings attempting several times to dislodge the Viking pirates from the area. During the Napoleonic era, an artillery battery was built on Scattery Island, although it was never actually needed. Finally, in the 19th century, it became the home of the Shannon Estuary pilots, expert boatmen who guided ships through the treacherous waters to Kilrush. At one point there was 24 houses on the island, but the last residents left in 1978, leaving only empty shells in their wake.
As with any day in Ireland, the weather was very changeable, but Scattery Island remains beautiful and dramatic rain or shine. Here are ten photos from my trip to the island that will make you want to see it for yourself.
Thanks to G for being my fantastic model, and for tagging along with me on this little adventure!
Approaching the island by ferry gives you a lovely glimpse at the layout of Scattery, with the round tower – one of the best preserved in all of Ireland – rising above the abandoned houses.
Scattery Island is beautiful rain or shine. As is often the case in Ireland, while there might be ominous-looking clouds in one direction, turn around and you could see blue skies in the other.
The round tower is the dominant feature of the island. 120 feet tall, it is one of the tallest in Ireland and is one of only two round towers in the country with a door at ground level. Next to it sits the island’s cathedral, a holy well and a small oratory believed to be the resting place of St. Senan, the founder of the monastery.
For such a small island, Scattery has a lot of churches. Seven, to be exact. Each of them are a roofless shell of what they once were. Many suffered damage during the reign of Queen Elizabeth I when she ordered the suppression of the monasteries. Graves pepper the area around them, some dating to as recently as a few decades ago.
According to legend, St. Senan forbade all women from setting foot on the island, even his own sister. When she died, her wish that she be buried close to her brother created a bit of a problem. To get around this issue, St. Senan waited until low tide and buried her in the intertidal zone, which he believed was not technically a part of the island.
After the guided tour of the churches and previously-inhabited parts of Scattery Island, you have just over an hour to explore the rest of the island before the ferry arrives to take you back to Kilrush. I highly recommend walking out to the southern part of the island, where the grasslands give way to saltmarsh.
The Vikings weren’t the last threat to Scattery Island. During the Napoleonic Wars, the British built six artillery batteries along the Shannon Estuary to prepare for a potential French attack. The Master Gunner’s House still stands near the battery, which is itself in disrepair. Tip: climb the battery for a great photo of the lighthouse through the window frames.
The lighthouse on Scattery was built in 1872, but is no longer manned. With its white and red colours, it stands out from the greenery around it. Its light guides ships through the Estuary and into safe harbour either in Kilrush or further up the River Shannon.
Low, crumbling stone walls are a common sight in Ireland, though an unusual and perplexing one to many a visitor. With miles and miles of them criss-crossing rural countryside in Ireland and on Scattery Island, it’s easy to wonder just how many people have stared out over these walls over the years.
Keep an eye on the time, as you don’t want to miss your ferry back! If you miss the last ferry, you might have to spend the night alone on the island. And with so much history here – some violent, some sad – who knows how many ghosts there could be lurking around.
On a less creepy note, have I persuaded you yet just how beautiful and photogenic this island is?
Practical Information:
- Tours run between April and October, with two or three ferry crossings each day. With half an hour crossing each way, a 1.5 hour tour and another hour of free time on the island, the full tour takes around four hours.
- Book your tour tickets in advance to avoid disappointment. You can see the available times and other information on the official website www.scatteryislandtours.com.
- There are no restaurants or shops on the island, so bring your own food and drinks. There are toilets and a small information centre.
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