Day Trip to Sintra – Portugal’s village of fairytale castles

If you’re anything like me, you love a good fairytale. Whether you’re a Disney fanatic (guilty), devoured book after book of stories as a child (guilty) or simply wished you were a princess whose Prince Charming would waltz through that door at any moment (yep, guilty), fairytales have always been a part of our lives. So it’s no wonder places like Sintra, one of the best places to go on a day trip from Lisbon, are so beguiling.

Side note: now that I’m older, I can’t help but think Rapunzel could totally have saved her own ass from that tower.

Sintra is one of those places where you spend most of your time wondering how the hell it all came about in the first place.

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The History of Sintra

Though its history spans several millennia, Sintra really kicked off with the Moors, the Muslim conquerors who came from North Africa over a thousand years ago. After the Christians retook the area, it became a haven for Portuguese royalty escaping the hustle and bustle of nearby Lisbon. Naturally, the nobility and aristocracy followed, building expansive estates in the surrounding hills. As the centuries passed, Sintra began to exude an almost mythical quality, drawing poets, artists and writers to its misty mountain forests, from Lord Byron to Hans Christian Anderson, who described it as the most beautiful place in Portugal. During the 19th and 20th centuries, the fanciful Romantic architecture began to appear, with the rich building monumental mock palaces and whimsical towers.

If you decide to visit Sintra (and honestly, how could you not?), but don’t have a huge amount of time, here are the four sights in the area I think you must see. They are all easily seen in the span of a day.

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Sintra’s Castles & Highlights

Moorish Castle

Portuguese: Castelo dos Mouros

When you first enter the Castelo dos Mouros and see its meandering walls, you might be forgiven for thinking you’d suddenly been transported to China. I loved walking along the stone structure as it snaked around the uneven hillside. But be warned, it’s A LOT of steps. The summer heat doesn’t help either. Dating from the 8th and 9th centuries, the walls and towers are in surprisingly good shape. And the views are simply to die for. In one direction the Atlantic Ocean beckons you, in another the green countryside of Portugal stretches out for miles and in yet another you can see across to the colourful Pena Palace perched on the next hill top. Don’t forget to check out the various archaeological excavations in the castle before you leave.

From the Moorish Castle it’s just a short fifteen-minute walk to Pena Palace.

Pena Palace

Portuguese: Palácio da Pena

Close to the Moorish Castle is the emblem of Sintra, and arguably the most popular of all the sites in the area. Pena Palace is like nothing I’d ever seen before. Imagine an over-the-top Disney castle, stick it on the top of a mountain, then let a three-year old child at it with primary colour paints. You have to pay extra to go inside, which I didn’t, but the exterior is more than enough to hold your attention. While the crowds may be thick and annoying here, don’t let that put you off. With several courtyards, each a different bright colour, and a cool walk around the outer walls (wave to the people at the Moorish Castle!) there are plenty of photo opportunities.

Once you’ve had your fill of the bright palace, take a stroll around the large gardens. You could spend hours here, but if, like me, you’re a little pressed for time, there are handy maps so you can choose which sites around the gardens you want to see most. If you’re only in Sintra on a day trip, with all the rushing around to fit as much in as possible, you’ll need to take a break, and the gardens around Pena Palace are the perfect place to do that.

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Quinta da Regaleira – the highlight of your trip to Sintra

Once Pena Palace and the Moorish Castle have been explored to their fullest, the best thing to do is head back into the main town of Sintra. From here it’s a ten minute walk to my absolute favourite place in Portugal (I still get excited just thinking about it!). Quinta da Regaleira is the kind of place that would make a medieval fantasy author jealous they didn’t think of it first. No day trip to Sintra would be complete without a visit to this beautiful place.

How to describe it?

This large estate is the definition of Romantic, featuring a Gothic castle, grottos tucked away beneath lush vegetation, statues of Greek gods lining sandy paths, and underground tunnels joining several wells allegedly used in the initiation ceremonies of a secret society. I mean, come on! How could this not be an insanely magical place? It was by far my favourite place in Sintra, in no small part because it has a freakin’ Rapunzel tower. I didn’t spend nearly enough time here. If you have a travel buddy, expect to spend a LONG time pretending to be on a photo shoot in all the amazing locations here. Though the famous Initiation Well (which you will definitely recognise from Instagram and Pinterest) is a lot harder to photograph well than it looks. And I certainly didn’t have the patience to wait long enough for a photo there without anyone in it!

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Sintra National Palace

Portuguese: Palácio Nacional de Sintra

Of all the castles I visited in Sintra, this was my least favourite, but when you think how high the bar had been set, it would be an injustice to say it’s not worth visiting. I’d recommend visiting it first (not last, like I did) because I think you’d appreciate it more. Situated right in the heart of the town, this massive building grabs your attention whenever you walk past. The tour of the interior is interesting, but I found the place a little boring considering I’d just spent my day with the endless photo opportunities of the previous three castles. However, there is one room that is guaranteed to take your breath away.

The ceiling of the Sala dos Brasões is a 16th century masterpiece. The wooden dome is decorated with 72 coats of arms, recording the Portuguese nobility of the time. To top it off, the azulejos (famous blue Portuguese tiles) covering the walls are stunning. The whole palace really fits into the Mudéjar style common on the Iberian Peninsula – the mix of European Renaissance and Moorish styles that I completely love.

Once you’re finished exploring for the day, grab an icecream or a chocolate salame from a bakery nearby and enjoy it sitting on the steps of the palace. The perfect way to end your day trip to Sintra before heading back to Lisbon.

Getting To Sintra:

Getting to Sintra from Lisbon is really easy. Just 40 minutes on the train from the Rossio Station in the Lisbon city centre, it’s a simple journey. It is highly recommended that you don’t drive to Sintra, as parking is a nightmare, and the narrow streets are often jammed with traffic, which could take a lot of fun out of your trip.

Important to note: recent changes mean that the roads around the Moorish Castle, Pena Palace and the historic centre are now limited to local residents only, which you’ll need to take into consideration.

• Trains depart from the Rossio Station as early as 5.40am, and run late into the night. Trains leave every thirty minutes during the week, and every hour on weekends and public holidays. Check the full timetable, as well as alternative routes, on this website here.
• It’s not possible to pre-book tickets, so you have to buy them on arrival at the station. Going as early as possible is best here, as there can be long queues to buy tickets later in the day. There are no return tickets, so buy a single each way. A single is €2.25 (as of September 2021).
• Tickets are added to a magnetic card called a Viva Viagem. The first time you get a card, there is an additional cost of 50 cents. After that, you just recharge the card for the return journey. Cards are one per person.
• Once you arrive in Sintra, it’s 1.5km from the station to the historic centre. It’s an easy walk or else there’s the 434 tourist bus that can take you there. This bus is on a loop between the historic centre, the station and Pena/Moorish Castle on top of the hill, so it’s a great way to avoid the long slog up the mountain road to those castles. There is also a steep 3.5km hike to the top through the forests if you’re so inclined. The walk from the station to the historic centre is flat and scenic.

Practical Information:

• Cost of entry to the Moorish Castle is €8 for a adult or €6.50 for a child/senior. Want to skip the queue? Buy your ticket here to save your precious time for exploring, not waiting in line.
• Pena Palace has two different ticket options: the Park only, which allows you to walk up to the palace and around the courtyards (€7.50 for adults, €6.50 for child/senior), and the Palace & Park, which grants access to the interior (€14 for adults, €12.50 for child/senior). As Pena Palace is the most popular attraction in Sintra, the queues to purchase tickets can be really long, so why not go ahead and pre-purchase them here?
• Quinta da Regaleira unguided tickets are €10 for an adult or €5 for children/seniors (free under 5yo). 90-minute guided tours are available, for €15/€8.
• Want to keep it simple and have someone else organise the whole day for you? Then why not book this full-day guided tour of Sintra, including transport to and from Lisbon?
• Accommodation is available in the town of Sintra if you want to stay longer, but as I’ve said, it does makes for a great day trip from Lisbon. Hotel and hostel prices are more expensive here than in the city. The Five House is the highest rated hostel in Sintra, and there are plenty of hotels and guesthouses to choose from.
• There are plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants of various cuisines and budgets in Sintra. I definitely recommend checking out the famous Piriquita bakery/dessert shop on Rua Padarias, just around the corner from the National Palace. Take some time to explore the cobbled streets and tucked-away stairs in this area as there are local artisans selling their beautiful wares here.
• Want to know about the best places to see in Lisbon? Check out my post on all my favourite places in and around the city.

Have you ever been somewhere that felt like a fairytale? Or do you think Rapunzel really didn’t need a rescuer in shining armour? Tell me in the comments below!

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