Sofia – Why It Shouldn’t Be Overlooked Or Underrated

The first thing that comes to mind when I think back on Sofia is flowers. Not what you were expecting to hear, I’m guessing. Maybe it was the time of year (mid-April), but from the multi-coloured tulips and pale cherry blossoms decorating the centre of the city, to the yellow dandelions dotting the residential areas, flowers were everywhere. It immediately put me at ease in this new country.

My original idea when I finished my three-month internship in Seville was to hop over to Romania before heading back home for the summer. But when I discovered some surprisingly cheap flights from Malaga to Sofia, I thought well I’ve always wanted to go to Bulgaria too… So here I was.

Though I was exhausted from my late flight the night before (I got to my hostel at 3am), I knew I couldn’t waste any time. It was my first time back in Eastern Europe since my Interrail trip in 2012 and there was so much I couldn’t wait to see. With two days in Sofia and one day for seeing the famous Rila Monastery out in the mountains, there was a lot of walking ahead. But trust me, this city is worth it. Here are some of my favourite places in Sofia you simply cannot miss. I also recommend doing a free walking tour; the guides are amazingly knowledgeable and friendly. The only downside is they don’t take you into many of the buildings and churches around the city, so you’ll have to come back later if you really want to see the interiors (which you should).

Also, don’t forget to keep an eye out for some amazing street art as you walk around!

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Boyana Church

When I think of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, I often imagine grand structures and vast natural landscapes. The Boyana Church, located in the suburbs about 20 minutes by bus from Sofia, couldn’t be more different to that. This small church actually looks bigger than it is on the inside, and really took me by surprise. Only eight people are allowed inside at any one time, and you can only stay for ten minutes. So why bother making the effort to see it?

Because the interior is breathtaking, that’s why. The entire church is covered in frescoes, many dating from the 13th century. Their preservation is incredible, with the colours still vibrant and the skill of the artists evident. Called the Boyana Master, the identity of this artist or team of artists who created the 240 individual figures is still unknown to this day. No photos are allowed inside, so you’ll just have to go see them for yourself.

I will say this – I adored the Boyana Church. But if you’re not particularly interested in art history or UNESCO World Heritage Sites, then this might not be the place for you. It does require a little effort to get there and you could find yourself disappointed.

Square of Tolerance

Sofia is remarkable in many ways, but in particular for the range of faiths found here. Of particular importance is the Square of Tolerance, a small area in which a mosque, a Jewish Synagogue, a Catholic cathedral and an Orthodox church sit within minutes walking distance from one another. Sofia is the only place in Europe you will find this phenomenon. What’s even more incredible is the story of how, despite being a Nazi ally during World War II, Bulgaria refused to send its Jewish citizens to concentration camps, saving more than 48,000 lives.

Remember to respect the cultures of each of these buildings. Remove your footwear and ladies cover your hair when entering the mosque. The synagogue is staggeringly beautiful, but there’s a serious bag check at the door. I had the whole place almost to myself that day, the only other occupant being a young man practicing his singing, his voice echoing around the ornate temple.

Despite this unity, the history of the square hasn’t always been smooth. In 1925 Communist terrorists bombed the St Nedelya Orthodox Church during a funeral in an attempt to assassinate the king of the time, Boris III. Fortunately for him, he was late to the ceremony and therefore survived, though 193 others did not. Today, the people of Sofia take this religious tolerance as a normal part of their lives, something many other countries should take note of.

City Garden and National Theatre

Every Sunday after 5pm, locals from around the city gather in the square by the Ivan Vazov National Theatre to dance to traditional Bulgarian music. Anyone can join in – Bulgarians and foreigners alike – and learn the steps as they go along. It’s wonderful to see a piece of their culture still alive and well in the 21st century. Situated right next to the City Garden, Sofia’s oldest public park, with cafes and picnic spots galore, it’s the perfect place to unwind after a busy weekend.

Church of St. George

Sofia doesn’t have what you might call an “Old Town” and the whole city feels quite modern. But you have to give credit where credit is due: Sofia is damn good at preserving its historic buildings. Take the Church of St. George, for example. Dating from the 4th century (yes, the 4TH CENTURY), it is the oldest building in the city. But it’s location might surprise you. To find it, you have to enter the courtyard between the Sheraton Hotel and the Office of the President. Surrounded on all four sides by Socialist Classicism architecture, the round church is in stark contrast. Built in the 1950s the contractors could easily have demolished the church to make way for the new construction, but they didn’t. Instead, the rotunda and its surrounding Roman ruins sit proudly as the centrepiece.

Also, if you happen to walk past the President’s Office on the hour, you can watch the changing of the guard, a wonderfully choreographed parade of soldiers in their bright red uniforms.

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

From the moment I stepped into Sofia’s main cathedral, I was instantly transported back to the Hagia Sofia in Istanbul. The low light, flickering candles, dark stone walls covered in paintings you can just make out in the dimness. The domed ceilings with small windows let in thin shafts of light, lending an eerie feel to the church. It was by far my favourite church in Sofia. I sat on one of the wooden benches placed around the edges and breathed it in while taking notes in my journal. I could have stayed there for hours. While Turkey’s Hagia Sofia was built in the 6th century, the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, named for the Russian Prince, is only 100 years old, but the inspiration from the former is clear.

No photos are allowed inside unless you pay a photographer’s fee, and while that was frustrating in the beginning, by the time I walked out I was happy with keeping the experience to myself. There was no pressure to get a good shot, and sometimes I need that.

Rila Monastery

Ok, so Rila isn’t in Sofia. In fact, it’s a two-hour drive away. But it’s most definitely a must-do when in this part of Bulgaria. It’s much easier to get there if you have your own transport, but there is a bus if you don’t. A bus that goes from a very inconvenient location, but hey, just be glad there is one. Tip: QUEUE FOR THE BUS EARLY. Even though I arrived at the bus station 45 minutes early, because I didn’t sit in the queue I almost didn’t get a place on the ridiculously small bus. Some people were turned away and I only managed to get on because the bus driver allowed several passengers to stand in the aisle after all the seats were filled. It’s important to remember this because there’s only one bus per day. The bus takes you through some beautiful Bulgarian countryside, where horses and carts are used for family travel, not as overpriced tourist attractions, where you can see fields being ploughed by hand. Even in April the approaching mountains were still capped with snow.

With the restrictive bus schedule only giving me two hours at the monastery when we finally arrived, I was surprised to find this was actually enough time. When I walked under the heavily-decorated arch into the monastery compound, I actually stopped in my tracks. And I’m not using that clichéd phrase lightly. I was literally stopped short by the sight of the striped arches, medieval tower and brightly-coloured church squatting in the centre. Add the snowy mountains and pine trees in the background and I was completely blown away. This is another of Bulgaria’s UNESCO World Heritage, and unlike the Boyana Church, I believe everyone needs to see the Rila Monastery. It is absolutely worth the effort. Entrance into the main compound and church is free, but the tower and museum have entrance fees. Unless you’re staying at the monastery (yes, you can stay overnight!) you cannot enter the upper levels of the monks’ quarters, but there’s still plenty to take in here before hopping back on the bus. DO IT.

Practical Information:

• The highest-rated hostel in Sofia is Hostel N1.
• Bulgaria is part of the EU but not the Euro Zone. Its currency is the Lev, an old Bulgarian word for lion, which is a symbol of the country, even though lions have never lived there! In 2022 the exchange rate is approximately 1 Lev : US$0.55 : €0.50 : £0.45.
• Prices are typical of Eastern Europe, with hostels, food and transport much cheaper than in the west. A beer can cost less than 1 euro and meals out at restaurant between 5 and 10 euro depending on where you go.
• Public transport around the city is manageable. There are both buses and tram lines, with one-way tickets costing 1.6 lev, or around €0.80.
• To get to Boyana Church, take the number 64 bus. This website – checkmybus.com – is pretty good for information on routes and timetables. The bus takes about 20 minutes to get to the church.
• To get to Rila Monastery is a little more awkward. The minibus departs from the West bus station (Ovcha Kupel) at 10.20am. It’s quite far outside the city centre so you need to take the No.5 tram there. The bus arrives in Rila Monastery after a change in Rila Village at 1pm and departs again at 3pm. A return ticket costs 22 Lev, or €11.

Bulgaria is so often overlooked as a travel destination, but I really hope this changes soon. However, this means that tourism is still lower than in many other places in Europe, with less people crowding the attractions. And Sofia is the perfect starting point for a Bulgarian trip.

However, like anywhere in the world, Sofia, and Bulgaria in general, has its dark side. Government corruption is a big problem, the sex trade is alive and well there, and rumours of a mafia at work abound. But in saying that, there’s no such thing as a perfect place and I personally feel that the more attention a place gets from foreigners, the more pressure is put on the people in charge to work towards a better future. As long as you do your research in advance and use common sense while there, there’s no reason to worry. I walked through parts of the city at night alone and never felt unsafe. But that’s me.

Have you ever thought about going to Bulgaria? Or have you already been there? I’d love to know so tell me in the comments below!

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