Before I arrived in Split, all I really knew about this city was that it was a tourist haven. Beaches in summer, yachts flitting between islands, a hearty nightlife scene – none of which really enticed me, if I’m being honest. My thoughts all lay ahead to Dubrovnik, the “real jewel” of the Croatian coast in terms of culture and history. Or so I thought. Three days in Split was only enough time to scratch the surface of this amazing part of the country. It’s just enough time to see the main city sights, walk up the hills next to the town centre, take an island day trip and visit another nearby historical city.
Day 1: Split’s Old Town and Marjin Hill
Diocletian’s Palace: the highlight of Split
Croatian: Dioklecijanova palača
I’ve wanted to visit Diocletian’s Palace for as long as I can remember. The Roman Empire is one of my favourite periods in history, and old ruins are a favourite of mine. So it was a bit of a suprise to me when I realised just the day before arriving in Split that Diocletian’s Palace isn’t just a ruin to visit, it’s the entire Old Town centre of the city. Ancient walls, gates and columns remain on the periphery, but over the 1700 years since Diocletian’s rule, through the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, houses, palaces, cobbled streets and squares all grew within the space where the ginormous palace once stood.
You could simply wander the streets for hours on end, discovering new palazzos and historical markers around each corner, but make sure you don’t miss the following: the Peristil, the most obvious part of the ancient palace left, the Cathedral of Saint Domnius next door, the palace “basements” containing a quasi-underground market, the Old Town Hall in beautiful Pjaca Square and Fruit Square. Stop at one of the many cafes for a coffee and some people watching, or grab a pastry in a bakery to munch as you explore.
Riva: Split’s waterfront
Once you’ve finished working your way through the maze of Diocletian’s Palace, head for the waterfront. Riva is a long promenade stretching from the south end of Diocletian’s Palace along the water, lined with trees on one side and restaurants on the other. If you don’t mind spending a little more for the view, this is a great place to get food or a drink, especially on a sunny day, perfect for gearing up for the final part of your day.
Marjan Park: for a great view of Split
To the west of the city centre, Marjan Park takes up almost the entirety of the tip of Split’s peninsula. Paths and stairs wind through this huge green space, so expect burning calves in exchange for the view from the top. The easiest way to access the park is by a set of stairs helpfully marked on Google Maps (search Marjan Hill Stairs), just a few minutes’ walk from the west end of the Riva promenade. If you have the time and the energy, you can walk all the way to the other end of the park, where there are a couple of beaches. I had the time but not the energy, so I walked to the top peak of the park, then looped around and back down to the city.
Day 2: Island Day Trip
It would be a complete shame to visit Split and not spend some time on one of the islands that protect the city from the Adriatic Sea. There are five bigger and countless smaller islands, each different in their own way. If you want to get a taste of some or all of them, you can take an island hopping group tour, which will give you a whirlwind day on the water, touching down briefly on several islands (or all five of the larger ones). Each island has something worth seeing, but if you’re on a tighter budget that can’t stretch to a multi-island day tour (or you want to go at your own pace), then you’ll have to get choosy.
For my day trip, I chose Hvar, mainly because of the presence of a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the island (and you know how obsessed I am with those). Getting the ferry to Stari Grad, one of two towns on the island to which the boats run, the other being Hvar itself, was so easy, taking just under two hours. During the crossing, the ferry squeezes through the narrow gap between Brac and Solta, giving you a bit of a look at those islands too.
Stari Grad is a pretty town, wrapped around two sides of a narrow channel. Tiny fishing boats line the water’s edge, and like every other Croatian town I’ve seen so far, it has its fair share of five hundred year-old houses and cobbled streets. But the main attraction for me (though maybe not for most other people) was the Stari Grad Plain, just outside the town. This 6km-long fertile plain is dotted with two thousand year-old stone walls, divided by the Greeks into smaller plots. Various civilisations have come and gone, but to this day those walls still stand, the same crops grown in each, using the same farming methods. From this area many modern farming practices were born, spreading around the world. It may not sound like the most exciting travel destination, but I found it fascinating, and loved finding some of the ancient Roman and Greek ruins dotted around the area.
I had originally planned to get a bus to Hvar town after seeing the plain, but after I got lost while inadvertantly hiking to the top of a nearby mountain in search of a Greek tower (which I found, as well as the most stunning view of the island), by the time I reached Stari Grad again I didn’t think I would make it there and back before the ferry departed for Split that evening.
And hey, it wasn’t summer when I visited, so I don’t feel too bad for not checking out any of the island’s beaches (or Split’s, for that matter).
Day 3: Trogir, Split’s UNESCO neighbour
Just a short bus trip away is the small town of Trogir, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is just as pretty as its larger neighbour. The Old Town core of Trogir is located entirely on an island reached by bridge from the handily-located bus station.
Like Split, Trogir has millennia of history, from the Greeks to the Romans to the Venetians. The narrow, cobbled streets form a maze of small squares, 13th-century churches, palaces and city walls. Also like Split, Trogir sits on the sparkling Adriatic, with a long waterfront filled with yachts (some insanely large and expensive-looking), ending with the impressive (but closed at the time) 15th-century Kamerlengo fortress. Trogir is becoming more and more popular as a sailing destination, with tourism now the most important economic factor in the area.
Trogir is also a Game of Thrones filming location (there are many in Croatia, particularly around Dubrovnik), with the streets of the Old Town standing in for scenes set in the city of Qarth.
You don’t need a huge amount of time to see all of Trogir, so it’s the perfect place to go if you want a relaxing day of food, dessert, sunshine and great views of the Adriatic.
Trogir is much closer to Split Airport than actual Split, so if you have an evening/night flight, spending the day in Trogir is really ideal.
Bonus Half-Day Trip: Klis Fortress
Croatian: Tvrđava Klis
If you have the time, I highly recommend visiting Klis Fortress, high up on the hills behind Split and easily accessed with public transport. There has been a stronghold on this site for over two thousand years, beginning with the ancient Illyrian tribe of Dalmatae (the tribe from whom the region’s name – Dalmatia – came), who were eventually defeated by the Romans. Situated above a small town and nestled between two mountain passes, Klis has been massively important for the defence of Split. It is remarkable how many sieges this fortress – perched on a rocky promontory, inaccessible on three sides – has withstood over the years.
The fortress as it looks today comes mostly from the Venetians in the 17th century. Multiple buildings are well-preserved, and it’s very interesting to wander the steps and pathways along the walls at various heights. The views from the walls over the green hills rolling down towards the red rooftops of Split in the distance and the blue waters of the Adriatic are simply beautiful.
Klis is also another Game of Thrones filming location – this time as the city of Meereen. So if you’re a die-hard fan of the HBO show, then visiting Klis (and Trogir) must take up at least one of your days in Split. If you’re happy to have a long travel day, then it’s possible to visit both in one day.
Practical Information:
- Currency: when I visited Croatia in 2022, the currency was the kuna; however, as of 1st January 2023, the country now uses the Euro, making visiting from the rest of the Eurozone even easier!
- Language: Croatian is spoken here, though many people, especially those in tourist-heavy areas like Split and Trogir, speak English very well.
- Accommodation: as a popular backpacking destination, it’s no surprise there are many budget-friendly options, located both within Diocletian’s Palace and a little further outside the Old Town Area. Make sure to book in advance if you’re heading to Split during the summer months, as it’s a very busy time and beds sell out quickly. I stayed at En Route Hostel, which I enjoyed a lot; the more centrally-located Old Town Hostel Split is also very highly rated.
- Many people take a day trip from Split to the city of Mostar across the border in Bosnia; don’t forget your passport for the border crossing! Mostar is an incredible place, but I recommend a full trip into this lesser-travelled country, not just a few hours.
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