Some people pick travel destinations because of beaches, restaurants, mountains, the nightlife, the lack of nightlife…whatever. Each location for me has a different pull. But often, and I’ve said this over and over again, it’s a particular species of animal that is the main draw for me. This shouldn’t be very surprising, considering I’m a zoologist. For example, I was very excited to explore Australia because of the incredibly unique wildlife there. So of course I wasn’t going to pass up the chance to see the tiny tarsier of the Philippines during my trip there.
These adorable (or hideous, depending on your point of view, although if that’s your point of view…say what?) creatures were the inspiration for E.T., with each giant eye approximately the same size as their brain. As nocturnal animals, they are extremely difficult to spot in the wild. It doesn’t help that every species of tarsier in the Philippines is under threat from habitat loss and the exotic pet trade, and are now only found on a few islands in South-East Asia. Bohol is by far the easiest place to see them, even if it’s not technically in the wild.
There are two tarsier sanctuaries in Bohol, though I’d never use that word to describe one of them. Every person I met in Bohol who mentioned wanting to see tarsiers may have gotten an earful on which sanctuary they should be visiting (whether they wanted to hear it or not). The sanctuary located in Corella – the Philippine Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary – is an official conservation project dedicated to the welfare and continued survival of the species. The “sanctuary” located in Loboc – Tarsier Conservation Area – while more convenient for tourists, is a for-profit tourist trap that has a reputation for mishandling their animals.
What many people don’t realise is that tarsiers are very shy, solitary creatures that become stressed very easily. And when they get stressed…they commit suicide by banging their heads against the ground. Yep.
Word has it that many of Loboc’s tarsiers get to this suicidal point, so the workers there simply capture more wild tarsiers to replace them. God, that makes me so mad.
But over in Corella, dedicated staff watch visitors like a hawk to make sure they remain quiet and a proper distance from the tarsiers that live in their large enclosure. This enclosure is designed to allow tarsiers in and out while protecting them from predators. YES.
It was a bit of an adventure getting to the sanctuary in Corella. Myself and T, a girl I met in the gorgeous Coco Farm Hostel on Panglao Island, decided to make the trip together, and hired a motorcycle for the day. A wobbly ride and one rain storm later, we finally arrived, utterly drenched, at the track to the visitor centre. The road was puddles of slippery mud. Trying to wheel through one of the deepest of these puddles turned out to be a mistake, as suddenly the bike was slipping sideways. Though we both managed to stay on our feet, the bruises running down the inside of our legs were very impressive by the next morning.
After washing the mud off ourselves, we payed the small entrance fee, wandered through the enclosure for about 15 minutes, saw four tarsiers, avoided an ocean of selfie sticks and emerged on the other side. While I wish the experience had lasted longer, the throbbing in my leg urged me home again.
I highly recommend visiting the Philippines Tarsier and Wildlife Sanctuary if you ever head over to Bohol. Who knows, in another ten years there might be none left to see, although the Philippine Tarsier Foundation is doing everything it can to prevent this from happening. And besides, when are you going to see another animal as unique and wonderfully weird as the tiny tarsier?
Just remember – head to Corella, NOT LOBOC!
Practical Information:
- While hiring a motorcycle is the easiest way to get to the sanctuary in Corella, it’s not a feasible option for everyone. Hop on a bus heading for Sikatuna, then walk 5-10 minutes down the track once you’re off the bus.
- Ticket prices were 50 pesos in 2016 (US$1/€0.90), with all of the money going towards the conservation of the species.
- You only really need about 30 minutes to have a look at the visitor centre and wander through the tarsier enclosure, but there is a 15km trail you can walk if you want to try your hand at spotting more tarsiers as well as the local bird life.
- I stayed at the Bohol Coco Farm Hostel on Panglao Island, and I absolutely loved it. One of my favourite hostels in Asia, and one of the cheapest options on Panglao. Nice rooms, good food served in their restaurant using food grown on the premises, and situated in a lovely forested area. It’s a ten minute drive to famous Alona Beach or a 20 minute walk to the local beach. Update October 2022: Bohol Coco Farm Hostel doesn’t appear to have reopened after the pandemic, so here are a few other accommodation options on Panglao.
Do you think more people need to be aware of the ethical practices of the tourist attractions they visit? Would you like to see the little tarsier of the Philippines?
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HOW TO INTERACT WITH WILDLIFE RESPONSIBLY
Never, EVER feed wildlife.
Enticing wildlife with food not only puts yourself in danger, but can lead to wildlife learning to depend on humans to survive or becoming more aggressive – neither of which are a good thing. Human food can also be dangerous to animals, making them ill or malnourished. Depending on where you are, feeding wildlife in national or provincial parks can also lead to hefty fines if you’re caught, so don’t risk it just for a photo op.
Mind your food and dispose of scraps properly.
Feeding wildlife can occur accidentally too, if left unattended or not thrown away correctly. When camping, hiking, or just out in nature, store any snacks or food in proper containers, and don’t leave food lying around unwatched. Even if you think there are no animals around, there probably are. And never leave food next to a rubbish bin. If the bins are full or you can’t find one, take it with you. Don’t be lazy!
Keep your distance.
Wildlife is unpredictable. Unless you’re very familiar with animal behaviour, it can be hard to tell how wildlife is reacting to a situation. Just because an animal looks calm, doesn’t mean it is. Certain times of the year have added dangers, such as mating seasons. Animals can be even more aggressive or volatile during these times, so extra caution is necessary. There have been too many instances of tourists getting too close to wildlife and getting injured, which usually leads to negative consequences for the animal as well.
A really good trick I learned was to use your thumb to check your distance. Hold out your hand and if you can cover the entire animal with your thumb, then you should be safe. If you can’t, back away slowly. Obviously the safe distance depends on the animal: deer need less, bears need more, etc.
Don’t touch.
If you’re lucky enough that an animal approaches you of their own free will, please don’t try to pat them. They’re not pets, they don’t enjoy it and it can spook them into doing something aggressive. Your touch can also be dangerous to some animals, particularly marine wildlife who have very sensitive skin. Whales, dolphins and sea turtles can be harmed by the chemicals often found on our skin from lotions, suncream and insect repellent.
Always be aware of your surroundings.
Many wildlife encounters become dangerous simply because the human wasn’t paying attention. When out in nature, always listen out for wildlife, don’t wear headphones, make noise and travel in groups if possible. Many animals are usually only aggressive when surprised, so giving them a chance to hear you coming and move away is always a good idea.
Stay calm.
Always important. If you’re surprised by wildlife, remain calm and don’t run. While the original intention of the animal is probably not to hunt, suddenly running or moving away may cause their chase instincts to kick in. Stay facing them and back away slowly.
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