Ecuador is one of the most diverse countries in South America, with three main ecological regions: coastal, mountain and rainforest. Visiting all three in the space of just two weeks is next to impossible, so some hard decisions will have to be made during your time in Ecuador. As I had just spent the past six months working in a coastal rainforest in Costa Rica (as well as ten days on the beaches of the Galapagos), seeing the mountains and valleys of central Ecuador were more important to me than visiting the surfer-filled coastal towns.
From lush cloud forest and waterfalls to historical cities and ancient Incan ruins, there’s so much to see and do in Ecuador. You’d need at least a month to really do the place justice. But whether you’re on holiday from work or spending longer in Central/South America, it’s understandable if you don’t have a month to spare for Ecuador alone. Here are two different itineraries that will help you make the most of your two weeks in Ecuador no matter which part of the country you start in.
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Itinerary 1: Guayaquil to Quito
Guayaquil: 1 night
Doing a linear itinerary between Guayaquil and Quito is your best option if you’re also planning to visit the Galapagos (which you absolutely should – check my very detailed itinerary for all the reasons why!), as all the flights to and from the islands go through Guayaquil, so this way you aren’t backtracking. Either start in Quito and end in the Galapagos, or start in the Galapagos and end in Quito.
Guayaquil itself is really just a gateway city, so I wouldn’t recommend spending more than one night here. There are a few nice spots to walk around in the downtown area, but there are much more interesting places to visit in these Ecuador itineraries!
Where I stayed: Casa Michael. I mainly chose this place because of its location close to the airport, but I did really like its communal space and the many shops and restaurants in the immediate area.
Cuenca: 1-3 nights
Anyone who knows me knows I have a slight obsession with UNESCO World Heritage Sites (I mean, it’s a perfect ready-made travel bucket list, what’s not to love?), so Cuenca was definitely on my list. The historical centre of the city is really beautiful and very well-preserved, and has a huge, gorgeous cathedral as well as a small outdoor flower market that has been featured in National Geographic as one of the best in the world.
On the outskirts of the city are the Pumapunga ruins, once home to the original inhabitants of the area. They’re free in and an interesting look at pre-colonial Ecuador. Cuenca is one of those places where you don’t really need to have a destination in mind as all the streets are really pretty; you could spend a couple of hours just wandering. The banks of the river are also lovely for a stroll.
You only need one day to see the city itself, so how long you decide to stay will depend on the day trips you want to do. Add a second night if you want to go hiking in Cajas National Park (make sure you’ve acclimatised first though, Cuenca and Cajas are at altitudes above the threshold for altitude sickness).
Where I stayed: Check Inn B&B. I had very limited options of where to stay in Cuenca because it was a holiday weekend and the city was almost fully booked up. The rooms are extremely basic, but the helpful staff, amazing location two minutes from the cathedral and the rooftop terrace made up for it. Click here to see what other hostels are in Cuenca.
Hint: if you like falafel, you have to check out Salatim Falafel around the back of the cathedral, it’s to die for. I went twice in the 24 hours I spent in the city!
El Tambo/Ingapirca: 1 night
Most people visit the Incan ruins of Ingapirca as a day trip from Cuenca, so if you want to go that route, then add another night to your stay there. However, if you do it DIY then you’ll be spending A LOT of time on buses, much more than you’ll spend at Ingapirca itself. In my opinion, the best way to see the largest Incan ruins in Ecuador is to spend the night in El Tambo, a small town about 30 minutes away by bus that most visitors just pass through. As you will be passing through El Tambo to get to your next destination anyway, this will save you a lot of time.
Stay in El Tambo, head to Ingapirca the following morning, then hop on an afternoon bus north. I told you this Ecuador itinerary would prevent backtracking!
Where I stayed: Hotel Chasky. One of very few places in town, this place only has private rooms, but they’re the same price you would pay for a dorm elsewhere. Nice and quiet, just off the main street, the beds are comfy, the showers hot and the kitchen available when you need it.
Baños: 2-3 nights
It’s a long journey from Cuenca/El Tambo to Baños, so I decided to break it up by spending a night in Riobamba (and one of my favourite hostels in Ecuador – Hostel Villa Bonita). The only reason most people come to Riobamba is to climb Chimborazo, Ecuador’s highest peak. If, however, you don’t plan on hiking the mountain, and don’t mind a long journey, then continue straight on to Baños.
Baños is absolute tourist central. The self-proclaimed Adventure Capital, your two weeks in Ecuador wouldn’t be complete without a stop here. There’s everything from hiking to cycling, to zip-lining to horse riding to white-water rafting here. No matter your pace or preferences, you will find something to do in this beautiful mountain valley. Oh, and did I mention the hot springs?
The town of Baños itself isn’t exactly the prettiest town I’ve ever been, and apart from the central church Basílica Nuestra Señora del Rosario de Agua Santa de Baños (try saying that three times in a row) and the main square in front of it, there isn’t much to do except eat, sleep and book activities. Getting out of town is where the fun begins.
As someone with pernicious anemia and therefore chronic fatigue, sometimes I am simply too tired to do many activities. Occasionally I feel like I’ve missed out when I visit a place and don’t do much there, but in general I’m happy to take a more relaxed approach. And because I have eight years of world travel under my belt, in all honesty there are times when I get a sense of ‘been there, done that’. So when I skipped all tours and adrenaline activities in Baños, I was completely fine with it. I had two days of free/cheap activities and enjoyed them immensely.
The main thing I would recommend doing while in Baños is to hire a bike and cycle the Ruta de las Cascadas from Baños to Pailon del Diablo, the most famous waterfall in the area. Go as early as possible (tour operators/bike rentals usually open at 8am) to avoid the crowds. You can also get a taxi or bus to the waterfall, but seeing the views of the valley and its many other waterfalls from a speeding vehicle isn’t the same as being able to stop and admire them whenever you want, is it? Cycling is really safe, with wide roads and special paths bypassing three of the four tunnels (you do need to cycle through the first tunnel, which I found absolutely terrifying, but it’s short and I’m a capable but nervous cyclist). After Pailon del Diablo, continue a bit further down the road to Machay waterfall, another very tall waterfall, but this one you can actually swim at, so it’s perfect for cooling off.
On day two, head to the hills to visit Casa del Árbol and the Swing at the Edge of the World, as its often called. Again, this is one of the most popular places in the Baños area, but going early or on a weekday should limit the crowd you have to deal with. And again, you can bus or taxi to the top of the mountain, but I decided to hike – a steep and breath-taking 3-hour hike that was very tiring but really enjoyable.
If you decide to spend more time in Baños, trust me, you will not run out of things to do.
Where I stayed: Papacho’s Hostel. A very social hostel that has the upside of lovely views across the town and valley and the downside of being half-way up a steep hill.
Latacunga: 2 nights
Like many of the bigger towns/cities in Ecuador, there isn’t much to do in Latacunga itself. Think of it more as a base from which you can explore the surroundings. There are two big attractions near Latacunga – Quilotoa and Cotopaxi.
The Quilotoa Loop is a 3-5 day hike that is considered one of the best hikes in South America. But if, like me, you are a little pressed for time, you can still take a day trip to the Quilotoa Crater lagoon, which is the best part of the Loop anyway. Two hours by public bus from Latacunga, Quilotoa is really easy to get to. Once at the town/volcanic crater you have two options: hike down to the lagoon shore and back up again, or hike the entire circumference of the rim. The first takes 1.5-2 hours, the second around 4 hours. I did the lagoon walk, which is very steep and extremely tiring, and a little bit of the rim walk before returning to the bus. Honestly, if I were to go back again, I would skip the hike into the crater. The best views are from the top, anyway, and unless you want to kayak in the lagoon, there’s nothing else down there. I wish I had done the entire rim walk – it looked amazing.
Cotopaxi is the other big draw to Latacunga, and if you decided not to do Chimborazo then Cotopaxi is a perfect subsititute for your Ecuador itinerary. As the second highest mountain and the highest volcano in Ecuador, it’s very impressive, if you get a clear-ish day, that is. Often covered in clouds, how good your visit to Cotopaxi is does very much depend on the weather. If you want to summit the snow-capped volcano, you need to stay at least one night in the National Park itself. On a day trip, you will be able to get to the snow-line, which is usually good enough for non-serious hikers.
Visiting Cotopaxi is a little complicated if you don’t have your own transport, and it can be expensive if you’re solo. I decided to save time and do Cotopaxi on my way from Latacunga to Quito (remember, no backtracking!), which was pretty easy to do, it just meant I had all my luggage with me all day. This limited my options for getting around the park. The bus drops you on the side of the highway at the turn-off into Cotopaxi. Here, park guides wait to take you in. This is where the expense comes. If you’ve met other travellers, are in a group, or organised to tag-along with others from your hostel, then splitting the cost of the guide will save you a lot of money. I was alone and there wasn’t anyone else around waiting for a ride, so I had to cover the entire cost myself, which was almost as much as an organised day tour would have cost me. On a weekend, your chance of finding others to join, or even a local family to hitch-hike around the park with is much higher.
My guide was very friendly and informative (in Spanish, which I just about understood), and drove me into the park. They will usually stop at the lagoon first to give you a bit of time to take photos and acclimatise to the increasing altitude before starting the drive up the volcano. Above the vegetation line, there’s a car park from where you can walk the 30-40 minutes straight up the mountainside to the José F. Rivas Refuge, where the snow line starts. Get a hot chocolate, admire the views (if you’re lucky and there aren’t many clouds), then head back down. The guide will drop you back at the highway, from where you can flag down one of the many passing buses to Quito.
Fun fact: even though Cotopaxi and Chimborazo are nowhere near as high as Mt. Everest when you count the height from sea level (5,897m and 6,263m respectively), because of their close proximity to the equator and the bulging of the earth caused by its rotation, the peaks of both these mountains are actually further from the earth’s core and closer to outer space than Everest is!
Where I stayed: Hostal Cafe Tiana. I really liked this hostel – it was good value, had a pretty courtyard/dining area, and came with free breakfast. Oh, and it has a rooftop terrace from which you can see Cotopaxi on a clear day.
Quito: 2-3 nights
The capital city of Ecuador and another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Quito is long and narrow, meaning that transport is either complicated or expensive. There are two bus stations, one in the north and one in the south. You will arrive in Quitumbe (south) from Latacunga/Cotopaxi/Baños, etc. From there you can get a taxi (around $8) or try to figure out the public transport system. If you don’t have much luggage and its during the day, you should be fine on public transport, but at night or with heavy backpacks, it’s not recommended. Quito’s public transport is notorious for pick-pocketing, and though I never experienced it myself, I was continuously warned about it.
There are two main tourist areas in Quito – the historical centre and La Mariscal. The historical centre has the UNESCO buildings, the architecture, the cathedral, the history, etc. While La Mariscal is more about food, drinks and nightlife. Take your pick.
From Quito you can take a day trip to Mitad del Mundo, the supposed centre of the world. The actual equator is about 250 metres away, but it’s an impressive monument anyway. Take the stairs up through the monument and museum to take in the views, walk the pretty grounds, browse the many souvenir shops and get your passport stamped.
Another popular day trip is to the market town of Otavalo, though I didn’t personally do this.
Where I stayed: Rebel Hostel. Highly recommend – small and quiet, on the edge of the historical centre with wonderful and accommodating staff and very comfy beds.
Mindo: 2 nights
Some people visit Mindo on a day trip from Quito, but I think that’s a waste – this is such a nice place! Located in a cloudforest about two hours from Quito, Mindo is like a smaller, quieter version of Baños, so anyone that found that town a bit much will love it here. Mindo also has all the zip-lining, canyoning and river tubing an adrenaline-seeker could want, but there’s also plenty of slower-paced activities. Hike to seven waterfalls in one place by taking the Tarabita across a mountain valley, take an early morning bird tour (this is one of the best places in the country for bird-watching), learn about chocolate making or visit a botanical garden full of butterflies. This is also the perfect place to relax and unwind after a busy couple of weeks and is a great way to end (or start) this Ecuador itinerary.
Mindo’s cloudforest ecosystem is also a really nice alternative if you don’t have the time to fit in a trip to the Ecuadorian Amazon to the east.
Where I stayed: Cinnamon House. Wow, is all I can say. One of the prettiest hostels I’ve ever stayed at. A little further from the main street than most accommodation (although Mindo is small, so it’s not a big deal), but worth it for the very relaxing atmosphere.
After Mindo, head back to Quito for one night before flying out to your next destination.
Ecuador Itinerary 2: Quito to Quito Loop
If you’re not including the Galapagos in your two-week Ecuador itinerary, then more than likely you’ll be starting and ending your visit in Quito (especially if the land borders are still closed). In this case, going all the way south to Guayaquil and Cuenca isn’t really worth it. However, skipping the south of the country does give you the opportunity to add another part of Ecuador into the mix: the Amazon. I really wish I’d had the chance to go here, but as I knew I was heading to Peru next and likely spending the next year in South America, I figured I would have other chances to see the legendary rainforest.
Though this isn’t the itinerary that I personally followed, this is what I would recommend if you decide on this route.
Mindo/Quito: 3-5 nights
Depending on whether you arrive in the morning or later in the day, either head straight for Mindo or spend your first couple of days exploring Quito. Because you won’t have had time to acclimatise by moving from the coast through the centre of Ecuador (like in Itinerary 1), you may need an extra day in Quito/Mindo to acclimatise to the altitude.
This loop can be done either clock-wise or anti-clockwise (I would advise checking days of the week when deciding so you can avoid weekends in Baños if possible).
Tena: 2-3 nights
If you decide to go clockwise, your first stop after Quito will be Tena, the gateway to the Amazon. Here you can get into the primary virgin forest (this means it has never been cut down), whereas if you head further south to the town of Puyo, seeing anything deeper than the secondary forest (was cleared and then replanted/restored) takes more time and effort.
Take boat tours down the river, relax in nature, spot the wildlife and hike to your heart’s content.
Baños: 2-3 nights.
Take a bus south through Puyo, then west to Baños. See Itinerary 1 above for more details.
Latacunga: 2 nights
Doing this itinerary does give you more time to play with, so if you spend fewer nights in Mindo, Tena or Baños, you could fit in the full Quilotoa Loop hike if you wanted.
Don’t forget your day trip to Cotopaxi during your stay in Latacunga.
Back to Quito: 1 night (if necessary)
Spend your last night in Quito if there’s more you want to see, or if you have an earlier flight. There’s no convenient public transport to or from Quito’s airport, so a taxi is really your only option. Expect to pay anywhere from $15-25 for the journey.
Which of these two awesome Ecuador itineraries would you prefer to do? Tell me in the comments below!
So, where to next? Peru, maybe? If you don’t want your South American adventure to end just yet, check out my Peru itineraries!
Practical Information:
- Currency: Ecuador uses the US dollar, which makes it pretty simple, really. You can find ATMs everywhere, which is good because most places prefer cash (or only use cash). Try to break bigger bills as quickly as possible, because smaller businesses may not accept anything bigger than $10.
- Getting around: taxis are surprisingly cheap in Ecuador, so you won’t blow your budget by taking some to and from bus stations, which are usually on the outskirts of towns and cities. For example, a taxi from the historical centre of Cuenca to the main Terminal Terrestre cost $2.50 one way and $1.50 the other. In Quito, you’re looking at more like $8 because of the much longer distances. There are frequent buses between all the main towns, just show up a bit early as there can be long queues or confusing layouts (I’m looking at you, Guayaquil terminal…). Most of the cities are walkable, but avoid venturing beyond the main tourist areas after dark, when taxis are a much safer option. Always agree on a price before starting the journey, and if a taxi driver tries to change the price afterwards, stand your ground and insist on paying what you agreed to. Uber is also an option, though technically it isn’t allowed in many places in Ecuador, particularly Quito. Uber is generally much cheaper, but you run the risk of getting stopped by the police, especially at airports (though it will be the driver, not you, that gets in trouble).
- Language: Ecuador is a Spanish-speaking country, though indigenous languages like Quechua do still persist in rural areas. Finding English-speakers shouldn’t be too much of a problem in places like Quito and Cuenca, but you can’t assume people will speak English in other locations, so learning some Spanish will make travel infinitely easier here. Ecuadorians are generally very friendly and accommodating, so don’t worry about floundering through some god-awful grammar to try to get your point across – they will bear it like saints and help if they can. I always save my accommodation, bus stations and points of interest to Google Maps, which is really helpful if you need directions and are struggling with the language.
- Climate: there is a very big difference in weather between the coastal and the mountain regions in Ecuador. In Guayaquil, for example, I was wearing shorts and a t-shirt and slept with just a sheet at night. But apart from when cycling in Baños, I didn’t wear shorts any other time. Even on sunny days it doesn’t get that hot during the day, and at night I actually felt very cold in many places. Thankfully, the hostels give bedding that suits the climate, but don’t expect the buildings themselves to be insulated against the cold, so make sure you have plenty of layers, as well as a rain jacket. There are only two seasons in Ecuador – wet and dry. The wet season usually runs from November to April, the dry from May to October. During the rainy season it’s more humid, but don’t worry, most of the actual rain occurs in the afternoons.
- Budget: Ecuador is fairly cheap, so it shouldn’t be too difficult to stick to a lower budget here. Most attractions are free or cheap, and if you eat mostly local or cook in your hostels, food will be cheap too. Not including flights, I spent an average of $30 dollars per day, which would have been even less if I’d shared taxis or accommodation with a travel companion every time. Here’s a breakdown of what I spent over the course of two weeks in Ecuador (approximately):
- Accommodation: $140 (mostly dorms, but a couple of private rooms)
- Food: $120
- Transport: $100 (cheap taxis still add up, so walk more = spend less)
- Attractions: $67 (I didn’t do any organised day tours or more expensive activities, so I would budget more for this if I were you, especially in Baños)
- Total: $440/€365 or approx. $30/€25 per day
I hope this guide on how to spend two weeks in Ecuador has helped you plan your travels! I’d love to hear from you – where are you most excited to go or where was your favourite place if you’ve already been? And, as always, feel free to get in touch if you have any further questions!
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