While the Waterford Greenway cycle is becoming more and more popular, it still doesn’t tend to make any “Places in Ireland To See Before You Die” lists. Which is a pity, as it makes for an amazing day out. Its 46km length between Waterford City and Dungarvan may sound daunting (it sure as hell did to me), but it’s actually pretty doable for anyone of any fitness level.
I would definitely recommend starting in Waterford, as this way there’s less uphill to get yourself up. And it’s always a good idea to leave the best views until last. And believe me, these views are worth waiting for.
I ended up doing this cycle as part of a girls overnight trip my mom organised with me and my sister. Surprisingly, it took 27 years for us to do something like this! We were really lucky with the weather and had a perfect day for cycling – not too hot, with the sunshine bursting out by the afternoon. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: Ireland on a sunny day is just glorious. Who’s with me?
Disclaimer: this website contains affiliate links. If you click on these links and make a purchase or booking, I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps me to continue this blog and help wildlife around the world!
Read more: Lough Gur – an Irish Roadtrip
Waterford Greenway Part 1 – Waterford to Kilmacthomas
Starting in Waterford city, we grabbed our hire bikes after a lovely breakfast and started off. One kilometer in and my legs were already starting to ache. But it helped that I was continually stopping to take photos of the gorgeous scenery.
The first half of the 46km journey isn’t the most exciting, but what comes after is more than worth the wait. Beginning by following an old railway track, the cycling/walking/running trail follows the River Suir before moving away from the water into the green fields perfectly consistent with that image of Ireland we all have.
Waterford Greenway Part 2 – Kilmacthomas to Dungarven
After 23km we were more than ready for lunch and a place to rest our sore behinds! So we stopped at the Coach House in Kilmacthomas, conveniently located right by the cycle trail – good food in a pretty setting. Once rested, we set off again.
This second half of the Waterford Greenway cycle is where things really kick off. There’s a narrow chasm with a distinctly tropical feel to it, complete with adorable fairy doors painted by local children and hung on the ivy-covered stone walls, followed by a long, dark tunnel that is insanely fun to cycle through (of course everyone ignores the ‘cyclists dismount’ sign, who wouldn’t?).
But the pièce de résistance comes just shortly after the tunnel, when the Atlantic Ocean/Celtic Sea makes its appearance. At first it’s just a glimpse, but then suddenly you turn a corner and BAM…
Yeah, that was worth breaking a sweat for.
From here the final 10km of the Waterford Greenway cycle is an easy downward slope into Dungarvan. The sun was shining, the water was sparkling and I had the biggest grin on my face because of it all.
It’s the most satisfying feeling in the world to power through the sore legs and bruises in inconvenient places to see the end coming near. Tip: there’s no 46km marker, so if you want a photo of your awesome achievement, make sure to stop at either the 45km of the 45 1/2km markers. One final push through the outskirts of the town, along the beach and you’re there! Admire the boats in the harbour and the cute row of buildings across the water, nab an icecream from the local shop and lie down on the grass of the park opposite. That last part is optional, but it’s what my mom, sister and I did once we had returned our bikes and it was the perfect end.
Back to Waterford
That evening, we wandered around Waterford for a little while. Even though it’s a modern city, its Viking origins are obvious and celebrated, from the round tower to its museum exhibitions. Make sure to take some time to wander the streets, some lined with everyday shops, others with ordinary-looking houses featuring a huge mural on one side. While our trip was all about the Greenway, I do wish I had had a little more time to explore the city better.
With aching feet, wrists, calves, butts, and pretty much every other part of our bodies, we said goodbye to Waterford and went our separate ways. It was time for the long drive home. You can bet your ass I jumped straight into a hot bath the first chance I got!
Practical Information:
- The bike hiring system is fantastic. For €25, you get a fairly decent bike for the day, as well as a shuttle back to your starting point once you’re done. Dungarvan, Waterford and Kilmacthomas all have hire bike offices, which means you can actually do just half of the cycle if you want to shorten it, or have limited time. Check out Waterford Greenway Bike Hire for more info.
- We stayed at Dooley’s Hotel, right on the waterfront. It’s a nice hotel in a great location, but not exactly for backpackers. My mom very nicely paid for our room, otherwise I would never have been able to afford it! If you’re not on a particularly tight budget, I would definitely recommend it as it is just around the corner from the Waterford Greenway Bike Hire office.
- For dinner the previous night we walked approximately 20 metres up the street to Cafe Goa, a really tasty Indian restaurant. And breakfast the following morning was about 100 metres away at the lovely Granary Cafe (you can tell we were really saving our strength for the cycle!). The city has plenty of other restaurant options, including a typically-Irish high number of traditional pubs.
- For more information, check out the Waterford Greenway official website: www.deisegreenway.com
Have you ever heard of the Waterford Greenway Cycle? Have I persuaded you to add it to your bucket list?
Like this post? Pin it for later!
